Very authentic Thai cooking served in a modest little shop. They also run a small Thai grocery store across the street.

Ikebukuro 2-62-6. Open 4pm-3am (LO) daily.

This large late-night bar offers an excellent selection of beers from around the world, including some very nice US microbrews, at decent prices. The happy hour from 6-8pm is an especially good deal, with many drinks half-price. The extensive food menu offers varied international fare such as Buffalo chicken wings, tacos, pork chops, pizzas and pastas.

Nishi-Ikebukuro 1-38-5, Seiko Bldg 3F. Open 6pm-3:30am (LO) daily.

Billing themselves as an "Oriental Bistro," this late-night drinking spot serves Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian fare at very reasonable prices. The front of the restaurant is open to the street during the warmer months of the year, adding to the festive atmosphere. Open until 8am (Sunday nights until 5am). Budget around Y2000-3000 for food and drink.

Ikebukuro 2-10-6. Open 6pm-8am daily.

Spicy chicken wings, yakitori and Nagoya miso specialties.

Minami-Ikebukuro 1-20-1, Yokota Bldg. Open 5-11pm (LO; 5am weekends) daily.

If you find yourself in Ikebukuro with a hankering for umeshu, look no further than Butazo, where giant pig lanterns hover luminously above the main dining space to add a dash of the bizarre to your dinner. Discover eighty kinds of umeshu and almost as many kinds of shochu as you nibble on tasty kushiyaki, miniature nabes and shabu-shabu, in addition to well-prepared izakaya standards. A couple of drinks and some substantial snacks will set you back about Y4000. No English.

Minami-Ikebukuro 2-16-8, Fujihisa Bldg East #3, B1F. (proceed down the spiral staircase of the "Fantasy World" entrance, and Butazo is the middle restaurant) Open 5pm-4am daily.

Scrumptious fried chicken wings, yakitori, chicken sashimi and much more.

Minami-Ikebukuro 2-27-8. Open 5pm-1am (LO) daily.

This cozy izakaya specializes in himono (grilled dried fish), with a big menu of different varieties from around Japan. There's also plenty of good regional sake. Budget around Y2-3000 per person.

Takadanobaba 4-11-8, 2F. Open 5pm-4am daily.

This cheap and cheerful late-night izakaya serves decent yakitori and izakaya fare and very cheap beer. The sprawling dining areas are usually crowded with Waseda students.

Takadanobaba 1-3-13. Open 4pm-5am daily.

Spicy chicken wings, yakitori and Nagoya miso specialties.

Hyakunincho 2-4-1, Sun Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-3am (LO) daily.

Superlative izakaya-style fare in a lively, noisy setting. They have an impressive and ever-changing selection of jizake (regional sake), plus good sashimi and grilled fish. Intriguing original creations include maguro kimuchii yukke, made with raw tuna and raw egg and flavored with kimchee and sesame oil. No English spoken.

Shinjuku 3-6-12, 2F. Open 4pm-5am daily.

This is the largest of several branches of this very popular budget wine bar in the neighborhood. Most wines by the glass are Y500-900, but you can spend a lot more on a special bottle if you're so inclined.

Shinjuku 3-6-14. Open 5pm-2am daily.

Choose from about fifteen wines by the glass or bottle, or pick a Latour or Mouton from the back and put it on your expense account. France is amply represented, with biodynamic wines comprising nearly half of the choices on the frequently changing list. While Marugo's laid-back modern interior recalls Manhattan, the tuxedo-clad staff is pure Tokyo. But don't let appearances fool you: the service is mannerly and attentive but never stuffy at this popular Shinjuku 3-chome spot. Choose from about fifteen wines by the glass or bottle, or pick a Latour or Mouton from the back and put it on your expense account. France is amply represented, with biodynamic wines comprising nearly half of the choices on the frequently changing list.

Small plates of olives, anchovy-avocado canapes, and cheeses start at 500 yen; earthy tripe stew and creamy pork and duck liver pate go for about Y700. You can order something more substantial - grilled lamb chops, pasta, or pizza - if you're feeling really peckish. On the fifth of every month the bar features a special selection of premium wines hailing from its namesake, Margaux. Menu in Japanese only, but a little English spoken. [Show more] [Show less]

Shinjuku 3-7-5. Open 5pm-2am daily.

This second branch of the popular and always-packed Marugo wine bar serves two dozen wines by the glass, about half of them French, with a new selection every day. The food menu is Italian and very reasonably priced. Get there early to avoid the crowds. [Go to branch review]

Shinjuku 3-9-4. Open 5pm-2am daily.

Inexpensive late-night pizzas and drinks in a very casual setting. Wines are Y1900 per bottle or Y500 by the glass, and all pizzas and side dishes are Y500 each.

Shinjuku 3-11-12. Open 5pm-5am daily.

Inexpensive jizake (regional sake) and good grilled fish. Seating can get a little cramped during peak hours, so check out the much larger Suehiro-dori branch just around the corner. No English spoken.

Shinjuku 3-9-10. Open to about 6am daily.

The smart drink list offers eleven choices of popular umeshu like Saika and Kakutama, plus a few liqueurs based on anzu (apricot), yuzu and even decopon (the orange-tangerine hybrid). Lots of shochu, a short but sweet selection of nihon-shu, and oodles of cocktails give you more reasons to sit and linger, while dainty servings of chazuke - twelve kinds, as a matter of fact - and other small dishes provide delicious distractions from the hectic world outside. Budget around Y3000 for drinks and a light meal. No English spoken.

Kabukicho 1-21-2, Itoh Bldg 3/4F. Open 6pm-3am (LO) daily.

Hazelburn offers an impressive line-up of Scottish whiskies, along with English draft ales and well-prepared Scottish and English pub food. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Kabukicho 1-6-6, Hashimoto Bldg B1F. Open 6pm-3am (5am Fri, Sat) daily.

Alps isn't exactly destination dining, but sometimes it's good to know a place where you can just show up with a group of twenty people and no reservation. Plus they're open until 9am every night but Sunday! The Y1500 party menu supplies ample, decent-quality food, and drinks are surprisingly cheap. (Y500 table charge.)

Kabukicho 2-35-2. Open 5pm-9am daily.

Serving relatively expensive German beers and decent pub grub in a cavelike basement, this branch of the Franziskaner group is worth knowing about mostly for their late-night hours.

Nishi-Shinjuku 1-4-6, Ida Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-5am daily.

Imaginative pub-style Japanese food and regional sake at great prices.

Nishi-Shinjuku 1-18-4, Kyoshin Bldg. B1F. Open 5pm-3am (LO) daily.

Shiryu's eclectic menu features charcoal-grilled fish and seafood on skewers, yakitori, okonomiyaki and yakisoba, salads and seasonal vegetable dishes. Drinks - beer, wine, cocktails, shochu, umeshu, Korean makkoli and soft drinks - are all Y390. Budget around Y3000 for dinner and drinks.

Nishi-Shinjuku 5-25-13. Open 5pm-4am (LO) daily.

This long-established izakaya mini-chain serves excellent Kyushu cuisine and a good assortment of sake and shochu from the southern island. Especially recommended are the Kagoshima-style tonkotsu (pork and daikon stewed in shochu) and a well-balanced Nagasaki-style sara-udon with vegetables and meat served over crisp fried noodles. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Udagawacho 17-2. Open 5pm-2:30am (LO; -11pm Sat, Sun) daily.

One of Tokyo's first Australian-only wine bars, with one of the largest selections of rare and expensive wines from that country. The food is mainly Italian, and consistently good. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Shoto 1-26-22. Open 6pm-2am daily.

"Hemel Belgian Beer and Food" lives up to their name - this comfortable wood-paneled bar offers an attractive selection of Belgian and European food to go with their extensive list of over 100 beers.

Dogenzaka 2-16-8, Sakamoto Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-3am daily.

This is the original gourmet stand bar that started the trend - they serve premium sake in attractive one-cup containers along with a huge menu of well-prepared food, all at reasonable prices. There's a sit-down restaurant down in the basement if you start to get wobbly. [Go to branch review]

Shinsen 9-7. Open 5pm-3am daily.

If you're thirsty for a cachaca cocktail in the wee hours of the night, follow the circle-stamped road past Mark City to Blen Blen Blen. This bone fide Brazilian bar, tucked into a faded white seventies-style building in Dogenzaka 1-chome, seats a maximum of thirty and stays open til 4am. If you're thirsty for a cachaca cocktail in the wee hours of the night, follow the circle-stamped road past Mark City to Blen Blen Blen. This bone fide Brazilian bar, tucked into a faded white seventies-style building in Dogenzaka 1-chome, seats a maximum of thirty and stays open til 4am.

Despite its difficult-to-find location and somewhat forbidding exterior, the space is cute and relaxed, decorated with colorful posters and knick-knacks of all sorts. The Brazilian flag hangs proudly on one wall, while shelves stacked with vinyl records stand beside the bar.

Take a seat and have a chat with Blen Blen Blen's gregarious master, Jukukuchi-san, while you snack on cocinias (Brazilian style chicken croquettes) or grilled chicken and corazon (hearts) and sip on your drink.

The Caipirinhas here are refreshingly tart, and the musical mix of Brazilian, soul, hip-hop, and R&B is fun and funky. The bar hosts DJ and movie events on weekends. [Show more] [Show less]

Dogenzaka 1-17-12, Nono Bldg 2F. Open 8pm-4am. Closed Mondays, some Sunday.

A very unpretentious, comfortably scruffy bar that looks like it's been frozen in time from the late seventies. They have a smattering of interesting beers from England, Belgium, Germany and Czech, plus lots of mixed drinks and bar foods.

Sakuragaokacho 2-9. (underneath JTB) Open 5pm-5am (1am Sundays). Open every day.

Well off the beaten track in Sakuragaokacho, this cozy little wine bar is a nice place to share a bottle with friends on a rainy evening. There's no wine list - the owner will choose something for you based on your preferences and budget. Wines by the glass are available from Y800, bottles from Y4200. Well off the beaten track in Sakuragaokacho, this cozy little wine bar is a nice place to share a bottle with friends on a rainy evening. There's no wine list - the owner will choose something for you based on your preferences and budget. Wines by the glass are available from Y800, bottles from Y4200.

Food is limited to snacks and small bites: assorted charcuterie, marinated vegetables, potato and tuna salad. While dishes such as garlic-sauteed shrimp and grilled chicken wings (seasoned differently to pair with red or white wine) are surprisingly tasty, they emerge from the tiny kitchen with glacier-like speed. [Show more] [Show less]

Sakuragaokacho 12-5. Open 6pm-2am daily.

The Buri group run a couple of popular standup sake bars (Buchi in Shibuya, Buri in Ebisu), and now they've opened a standup French bistrot, with similarly inexpensive food and 100 different wines. If you get tired of standing there's also a sit-down restaurant in back; snacks up front average around Y700, with main courses in the restaurant averaging Y1500. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Shibuya 1-10-12, Miyagi Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-3am daily.

The warm, cozy atmosphere and friendly service are the draw at this casual Hokkaido-inspired izakaya. The cooking is home-style and simple, - some highlights have included smoked salmon with a crisp, almost crunchy skin, and lightly grilled bamboo shoots served with fresh katsuo-bushi. The hand-written menu changes with the seasons. Dinner runs around Y3000-Y5000 with drinks.

Shibuya 1-12-24, 707 Shibuya Bldg 2F. Open 5:30-2am (LO) daily.

Call it a wine izakaya if you like - you can choose from more than a dozen wines by the glass from France, Italy and Japan, along with an eclectic mix of original small dishes from those same countries. Many of the ingredients are imported fresh from Tohoku-area farms - we recently enjoyed two different cuts of well-grilled guinea fowl and flavorful late-summer green and yellow zucchini served with a dollop of miso. Daily specials can include such diverse dishes as mussels with Brussels sprouts; bamboo shoots with pig's feet; and pate de campagne. Call it a wine izakaya if you like - you can choose from more than a dozen wines by the glass from France, Italy and Japan, along with an eclectic mix of original small dishes from those same countries. Many of the ingredients are imported fresh from Tohoku-area farms - we recently enjoyed two different cuts of well-grilled guinea fowl and flavorful late-summer green and yellow zucchini served with a dollop of miso. Daily specials can include such diverse dishes as mussels with Brussels sprouts; bamboo shoots with pig's feet; and pate de campagne.

The atmosphere is casual and friendly, and the shop's layout is narrow but quite deep, with most seating at a long, comfortable counter, plus two tiny tables at the very back. Fourteen wines by the glass are priced Y600-1000, while bottles start at around Y3500, with a number of organic selections. You can drop in for a late-night snack or a full meal, a quick glass or a full bottle. Budget around Y4000 with drinks for a dinner-size order. [Show more] [Show less]

Higashi 3-16-10, Miura Bldg 101. Open 3pm-4am (LO; -midnight Sundays) daily.

The decor here captures the feeling of the French countryside, with mirrors everywhere, wood panels, and ducks and a deer head mounted on the walls. The restaurant is connected with Hazel Grouse Manor in eastern Hokkaido, which supplies them with fresh vegetables, seafood and wild game. The decor here captures the feeling of the French countryside, with mirrors everywhere, wood panels, and ducks and a deer head mounted on the walls. The restaurant is connected with Hazel Grouse Manor in eastern Hokkaido, which supplies them with fresh vegetables, seafood and wild game.

You'll find grouse, wild duck and other game from October through January, and Ezo venison year-round. The venison steak with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a standout, and the wild duck was a revelation - pleasantly gamey in flavor and far less fatty than expected. Recommended starters include the four-meat terrine and the foie gras pate with fig.

Wines are from Bordeaux, Burgundy, California and Chile - more than sixty wines in total, at all price ranges. Around Y8,000-10,000 for dinner with drinks. [Show more] [Show less]

Hiroo 1-10-6. Open 5pm-2am. Closed Mondays.

This sprawling, spacious izakaya focuses on meats - premium-quality charcoal-grilled beef, pork and chicken to be precise - although they also offer a nice selection of creative seasonal and vegetable-centered small dishes. There's a full selection of yakitori and other skewered items, meat-based nabe stews, and tempting beef offerings - teppanyaki steaks, A5-grade roast beef, and various cuts like kalbi grilled on a charcoal-burning hibachi. This sprawling, spacious izakaya focuses on meats - premium-quality charcoal-grilled beef, pork and chicken to be precise - although they also offer a nice selection of creative seasonal and vegetable-centered small dishes. There's a full selection of yakitori and other skewered items, meat-based nabe stews, and tempting beef offerings - teppanyaki steaks, A5-grade roast beef, and various cuts like kalbi grilled on a charcoal-burning hibachi.

Drinks include a big selection of budget wines from around the world (mostly in the Y2000-3000 range), a decent sake list, plus the usual shochu and cocktails. Budget around Y3500-4000 for food and drink. [Show more] [Show less]

Ebisu 1-8-14, Daikoku Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-4am (LO) daily.

A lively basement izakaya, Hakata Mangetsu has a charming style all its own: mismatched sofas and chairs that look like they've put in years of service; an infectiously bouncy eighties-pop soundtrack; and laid-back but friendly service. Plus prices that are hard to believe in such a prime location - yakitori from Y46 per skewer, Suntory Malt's beer at Y208 a glass, and two-hour open-bar plans for just Y780 between midnight and 5am. A lively basement izakaya, Hakata Mangetsu has a charming style all its own: mismatched sofas and chairs that look like they've put in years of service; an infectiously bouncy eighties-pop soundtrack; and laid-back but friendly service. Plus prices that are hard to believe in such a prime location - yakitori from Y46 per skewer, Suntory Malt's beer at Y208 a glass, and two-hour open-bar plans for just Y780 between midnight and 5am.

The food is fairly decent and good value for money, with some nice bargain surprises like the very good cabbage with spicy miso dip (Y280). In addition to yakitori there's a selection of filling nabe stews, starting at Y924 per person, sashimi and other izakaya standards. Drinks include fruit liqueurs, Korean makkoli, sake, shochu, wine and cocktails. Budget around Y2200 for ample food and drink. [Show more] [Show less]

Ebisu 1-8-14, Daikoku Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-5am daily.

It's easy to appreciate the beauty of Bar Guapos, where Y1500 is enough for a glass of tinto or blanco and one or two tasty tapas. There are about fifteen Spanish wines on the drink list, plus a number of Sherries. It's easy to appreciate the beauty of Bar Guapos, where Y1500 is enough for a glass of tinto or blanco and one or two tasty tapas. A complimentary dish of grana cheese, scooped directly out of the gigantic wheel on the counter, will give you something to nibble on as your contemplate your next order. There are about fifteen Spanish wines on the drink list, plus a number of Sherries.

Check out the daily specials written on a blackboard at the back of the bar, or stick with the favorites on the regular food menu. Stuffed mushrooms arrive sizzling in their ceramic dish; adorable ham croquettes come topped with a dab of tomato sauce. Burnt-orange walls and flamenco music add to the Iberian flavor, but you don't have to habla Espanol to get a drink: the affable bartender speaks very fluent English. There are a few seats, but it's mostly standing. [Show more] [Show less]

Ebisu-Nishi 1-3-8. Open 5pm-3:30am (LO; 5-11:30pm Sun, Mon). Open every day.

A bit of Roppongi nightlife dropped into Ebisu - live bands, English beers (mostly bottled), and inexpensive, filling pub dishes like shepherd's pie.

Ebisu-Nishi 1-13-3. Open 5pm-2am (LO 1-ish). Closed Mondays.

This stand-up bar specializes in one-cup sake from around the country; the selection perhaps isn't as exciting as a regular sake bar, but the atmosphere is convivial and the shop makes a good first stop on an Ebisu tour.

Ebisu-Nishi 1-14-1. Open 5pm-3am daily.

If you're in the mood for fantastic fresh fish and seafood, Ebisu Kaigan is the next best thing to an early-morning trip to Tsukiji Fish Market. Occupying a renovated old Japanese house, this cozy little restaurant (whose name means "Ebisu Beach") exudes a relaxed and homespun atmosphere. You can take your dinner at the counter downstairs while you chat with the chefs, but the second-floor tatami-mat area is even more fun - it almost feels like you're visiting friends or relatives at their beach house as you enjoy the best of the day's catch. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Ebisu-Minami 3-4-1. Open 5pm-1am (LO; -11pm weekends). Open every day.

The wide menu here covers a lot of ground, but particularly notable are the top-quality meat dishes featuring Hokkaido lamb, game birds and gourmet pork. The cozy dining room has mostly counter seating, with two small hori-kotatsu tables. Budget around Y4000.

Ebisu-Minami 1-2-8. Open 6pm-3am (LO; 10pm Sun) daily.

The impressive sake list includes a number of small-kura limited-edition seasonal sakes; there's also plenty of shochu. The food is also top-notch, with unusual specalties like satsuma-age (Kyushu-style fish cakes, here available in eight different variations). [See FULL REVIEW.]

Ebisu-Minami 2-3-14, Conze Ebisu 2F. Open 4:30pm-5am (to 10:30pm Sundays). Open every day.

(Pronounced "Zanc") A friendly neighborhood bar with a good assortment of Belgian beers, an electronic dartboard, and simple Japanese/Korean snacks.

Arai 2-30-11. Open 5pm-5am daily.

A small wine bar with a limited food menu and late-night hours.

Nakano 5-36-3, Takaden Nakano Bldg B1F. Open 7pm-4am (LO) daily.

Despite the close quarters, Navel is a relaxing place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a bite to eat. Around ten wines are available by the glass (Y300-), and selections change daily. This tiny wine bar occupies a sliver of space in the basement of an easily overlooked building, one minute away from Nakano station. It's a counter-only affair, and despite the close quarters, Navel is a relaxing place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a bite to eat. Around ten wines are available by the glass (Y300-), and selections change daily. There's no wine list, but the friendly and knowledgeable bartender will recommend one for you based on your preferences.

Like the bar itself, the food menu is small, but all of the dishes are reasonable (Y399-) and nicely done. Tasty snacks like homemade sausage patties, melted Camembert cheese, and grilled seafood are prepared on a diminutive iron griddle behind the counter.

In addition to wine, there is a large selection of distilled spirits - from single malts to unaged corn whiskey, and a range of eaux de vie. If you understand Japanese and you're curious about the difference between Cognac and Armagnac, tequila and mescal, or grappa and marc, this is a good place to ask. The bartender will be happy to expound on the topic. [Show more] [Show less]

Nakano 2-30-8, Tachikawa Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-4am daily.

A very casual local (non-standing) bar with reasonably priced wines. Most food items are priced at Y400 and come in tiny, bite-size portions.

Nakano 3-35-6. Open 5pm-3am daily.

A large, lively izakaya that occasionally hosts performances of Okinawan musicians. There's a long counter and big tatami mat area - both usually packed. The staff wear Okinawan costumes, there's non-stop Okinawan music in the air, and the counter is decorated with cans of Spam, taco sauce, and other Okinawan delicacies. The food is wonderful and fairly cheap - highlights include their goya champuru, goat soup, and the papaya pickled in miso. The drinks menu includes original awamori cocktails and Okinawan microbrew beer.

Koenji-Kita 3-2-13. (located along the shopping street on the north side of the station) Open 5pm-5am daily.

Part of a popular izakaya chain, Himonoya specializes in himono (grilled dried fish), with a big menu of different varieties from around Japan. There's also plenty of good regional sake. Budget around Y2-3000 per person for food and drink.

Koenji-Kita 3-2-16. Open 4pm-3am daily.

Spicy chicken wings and yakitori; one of four Toriyoshi branches in the neighborhood.

Kichijoji Honcho 1-14-8. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.

Spicy chicken wings are the specialty, but they have every other kind of chicken dish as well, from yakitori to chicken sashimi.

Kichijoji Minamicho 1-1-10, MA Bldg. 1F. Open 5pm-2am daily.

An unpretentious basement bar stocking an excellent selection of craft beers from Japan (particularly Baird and Hitachino Nest) and around the world.

Kichijoji Minamicho 1-1-8, Keyaki Bldg B1F. Open 7pm-5am; Sat/Sun 6pm-5am daily.

A cozy, warm bar with a nice selection of Belgian beers and also several wines by the glass (surprising for a beer bar).

Matsubara 3-42-1. (30 sec. from Shimo-Takaido station) Open 6:30pm-1am (LO) daily.

A little neighborhood shop serving okonomiyaki and Tokyo-style monjayaki, plus meats and seafood grilled teppanyaki-style. What sets them apart, though, is their menu of imported German beers - Edelweiss, Schneiderweise, Frankenheim and Krombacher to name a few - which are well-suited to the food.

Yoyogi 4-50-6. Open 5pm-1am (LO) daily.

A three-story Okinawan restaurant - the first floor has a noodle-shop atmosphere, with inexpensive Okinawan soba. The second floor is more of a nomiya, with some 50 different types of awamori; while the third floor is more of a Western-style bar. The same food menu is available throughout, with nicely prepared Okinawan standards.

Daizawa 5-32-7. Open 6pm-1am. Closed Mondays.

The decor here is all earth tones, raw concrete and slabs of wood, with a big tree sitting right in the middle of the floor. Music ranges from reggae to laid-back rock, and the atmosphere is totally chilled-out - people talk in hushed voices, which may be exactly what you need when you stumble in here at 3am. It's "cafe time" from 2-7pm, with coffee and cake. No table charge; no English.

Kitazawa 2-14-1, OT Bldg 3F. Open 2pm-5am daily.

They've pulled out all the stops to recreate the feel of an open-air Italian caffe-bar here - barrel tables, chalkboard menus, old advertising posters, grafitti on the walls, hams hanging from the ceiling, with Italian radio providing the soundtrack. They've pulled out all the stops to recreate the feel of an open-air Italian caffe-bar here - barrel tables, chalkboard menus, old advertising posters, grafitti on the walls, hams hanging from the ceiling, with Italian radio providing the soundtrack.

The eight wines by the glass go well with the carpaccio of the day (served with tangy fresh rocket leaves) or the Y1000 cold-cut platter (generous portions of prosciutto, salami and speck). Other choices include grilled meats, antipasti and salads, with huge pints of Belgian Hoegaarden white beer a refreshing alternative to wine. [Lunch from 11:30am on weekends.] [Show more] [Show less]

Kitazawa 2-14-14. Open 3pm-2am (LO) daily.

Cheap and cheerful are the bywords at this Osaka-based yakitori chain, with all dishes and drinks priced at Y294. Besides the usual yakitori (the wings are suprisingly good) there are entertaining items like Indian-inspired naan pizza, camembert croquettes (served with extra butter), and a good selection of fresh vegetables. The shop attracts a young crowd, and it fills up pretty quickly, so get there early or be prepared to wait on line.

Kitazawa 2-19-17, Sawadaya Bldg 2F. Open 6pm-3am (LO) daily.

This tiny, ramshackle hole-in-the-wall is a late-night Shimo-Kitazawa legend, going strong since 1974. The space behind the bar is filled with mountains of CDs and shelves of vinyl (many of them 70s UK glam rock and local Japanese bands), and the seating area is so small that you have to step outside to let other customers in and out. When you order a drink the bartender telephones the similarly dilapidated sister bar just upstairs (Trouble Peach) and they deliver. (Y400 cover charge.)

Kitazawa 2-9-18. Open 8pm-8am daily.

This tiny basement bar hosts live performances from local jazz musicians a few evenings a week, and plays a wide assortment of jazz CDs and videos the rest of the time.

Kitazawa 2-9-22, Eiko Shimo-Kitazawa Bldg B1F. Open 8pm-3am daily.

Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped. Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped.

The small food menu is good and inexpensive, with tasty beer-friendly dishes like deep-fried octopus, fish and chips, spicy fried chicken and shepherd's pie. The atmosphere is quiet and low-key, and service (in Japanese) is friendly and helpful. Beers rotate frequently, so every visit can be a new experience. [Show more] [Show less]

Kitazawa 2-9-3, Miku Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-2am. Closed 1st and 4th Tuesdays.

A friendly neighborhood hang-out with a selection of sake and a few Japanese microbrew beers, along with appetizing izakaya-style dishes.

Ikejiri 3-3-3. Open 5pm-5am daily.

Hearth-grilled skewers of meat, seafood and vegetables are the draw at this stylish izakaya, including several types of name-brand pork. They also serve up creative tapas-style starters like their terrine made with ten different organic vegetables, and their three-part smoked platter of the day. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime.

Taishido 4-29-15. Open 6pm-2am (Sat -5am; Sun -midnight) daily.

A casual bar/ cafe/ restaurant with a very varied but always appealing izakaya-style menu, with dishes like beef cheeks stewed in beer, Vietnamese spring rolls, and a lavishly constructed Salad Nicoise. The drinks list is similarly eclectic, with very reasonably priced wines.

Tamagawa 3-23-24, B1F. Open 6:30pm-3am daily.

Fairly decent Italian fare (pastas, grilled fish, antipasti) served in small portions. Drinks are on the expensive side.

Tamagawa 3-12-13. Open 5pm-5am. Open every day.

A casual bar-restaurant from the folks who brought us the original gourmet stand-bar, Buchi, and its French cousin, Bongout Noh. Drinks include wine by the glass and plenty of premium sake brands, and the food menu covers seafood, charcoal-grilled meats, tofu and vegetables, with dishes like foie gras and daikon miso dengaku (Y1400).

Aobadai 1-27-12. Open 5pm-1am daily.

Excellent charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables are served here with Korean-style sauces and side dishes. The quality of the meats is first-rate, and there are lots of grilled and stewed organ meats. Drinks include flavored Korean makkoli (sweet, cloudy sake) plus sake and shochu. The spacious counter is warm and comfortable.

Higashiyama 1-6-16. Open 6pm-2am (LO; Sundays 10pm) daily.

This stylish, modern izakaya offers an array of European and Japanese dishes - liver pate, fried oysters, braised beef cheeks - as well as the Napolitan-style pizza that has spread like wildfire across Naka-Meguro. The copper steins used to serve beer are a nice touch. Budget around Y5000 per person.

Kami-Meguro 1-14-9, ST Sakurabashi A 1F. Open 5pm-5am. Closed Mondays.

This riverfront "designer izakaya" serves both Japanese and European dishes and drinks, including sake and shochu. Dinner is around Y5000 at dinnertime with drinks.

Kami-Meguro 1-5-10. Open 6pm-1am (LO) daily.

This busy shochu specialist, with room for only 25 (including the outdoor seating that spills out onto the sidewalk), features over 100 varieties, along with Kagoshima style cooking. Nibble on izakaya standards like grilled chicken and buta no kakuni, or more unusual items like chicken sashimi. Budget around Y4000.

Kami-Meguro 1-4-3, Excel Naka-Meguro 103. Open 6pm-1am (LO) daily.

A friendly, casual little spot with some of the better Mexican fare available in town. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Kami-Meguro 4-10-4. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Wednesdays.

Tapas and grilled items, a good selection of sherry, plus around 5 wines by the glass are available at this pleasant bar, located on a small side street behind the Nakameguro GT building. The first floor, with its counter seating (and standing room at the front), has a cozy, chilled out feel. Table seating can be found on the second floor. (Open 4-11:30pm Sundays and holidays.)

Kami-Meguro 2-7-10. Open 6pm-2:30am (LO) daily.

An evening cafe with an eclectic food menu, mismatched furniture and a relaxed atmosphere. The extensive food menu (available in English) is inspired by a wide range of influences, from Vietnamese pho noodles, Thai soups and dim sum to vegetable platters and Mediterranean-style tapas. Freshly baked apple pie is one of the dessert highlights, and drinks include espresso, Chinese teas, herb teas and cocktails.

Kami-Meguro 2-43-10. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Mondays.