Chigasaki-shi
A sunny little cafe nestled within the chain-restaurant wasteland north of the Chigasaki station, Suzunoki serves good focaccia sandwiches and home-made desserts. The lunch specials are a cut above the usual fare and always include a curry (ranging from Indian to Thai to Japanese variations) and an Italian-inspired stew or braised dish.
Chigasaki, Motomachi 4-32. Open 11:30am-6pm. Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Fujisawa-shi
Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe, conveniently located next to Fujisawa station. Budget around Y2500 for dinner.
Minami-Fujisawa 1-2, Lierre 2F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Over 100 beers from around the world, including refreshing Belgian Hoegaarden white beer on tap, plus several varieties of Rogue Ales from Oregon. Unfortunately the food (billed as "world garlic cuisine") isn't as exciting as it sounds, and it can take awhile to arrive.
Kugenuma/ Katase Kaigan
A branch of the famous Hakata ramen chain, featuring thin, slightly chewy noodles in a pork-based broth ("red" or "white"), with or without extra chashu. You can add your own freshly grated garlic.
Koshigoe 3-5-29. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Reasonable prices and lots of all-you-can-eat specials at this popular American chain restaurant.
Katase Kaigan 3-22-19. Open 11am-11pm daily.
After an invigorating climb to the top of Enoshima Island (or at least a long escalator ride), this is a nice place to enjoy the local seafood along with an inspiring cliffside view. The sashimi teishoku is Y2500, with donburi (rice bowls) starting at around Y1000.
Enoshima 2-6-5. Open 10:30am-7pm daily.
Shichirigahama/ Inamuragasaki
Bills (Australian). 0467-33-1778
Gourmet breakfasts and good cafe fare from Australian celeb chef Bill Granger.
Shichirigahama 1-1-1, Weekend House Alley 2F. Open 8am-9pm (LO; Mon -4pm) daily.
Amalfi (Italian). 0120-13-9911
Smart Italian cuisine with an amazing ocean view. Prix-fixe lunches from Y2520, dinners from Y3500.
Kamakura-shi, Shichirigahama 1-4-8. Open 11am-3:30, 5-10pm daily.
The best Italian food on the entire coast, with great antipasti and seafood. There's no need for a full-course meal, you can just order pasta and a glass of wine if you like. There's a small patio where you can gaze out over the ocean. Reservations recommended. (Full-course dinners Y3,500-6,000.)
Kamakura-shi, Inamuragasaki 2-6-11. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
On the way to the popular sunset-viewing point on Shichirigahama, this little tachinomiya serves up Italian reds and whites, nihonshu and juices. The small counter displays Mediterranean- and Japanese-inspired salads, home-made onigiri, and some of the best and most novel yakitori in Shonan. Lavender-rubbed chicken breast, anyone? Shio and tare are available, too.
Kamakura, Inamuragasaki 3-4-3. Open 11am-10:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Kamakura
Miyadai - the funky, rundown meat market near Hasedera - makes the best korokke in Kamakura. With little fanfare but a well-deserved reputation, they make art of the classic plain potato fritter, and offer a dizzying array of variations - meat, chicken, seafood, corn, and curry among others. Your korokke are cooked to order, and you can enjoy them fresh from the fryer with a cold beer or soft drink at one of the small tables lining the walls.
Kamakura, Hase 1-14-19. Open 9am-8pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Open since May 2009, this friendly and elegant eatery has redefined Italian food in Shonan. From Sicilian-inspired seafood carpaccios and couscous to handmade pastas in rich Northern-style ragus to perfectly roasted lamb and pork, nothing is amiss. Open since May 2009, this friendly and elegant eatery has redefined Italian food in Shonan. From Sicilian-inspired seafood carpaccios to handmade pastas in rich Northern-style ragus to perfectly roasted lamb and pork, nothing is amiss.
The indulgence is amplified by a broad wine selection (all Italian) with ample pours and opportunities to sample. Antipasti range from Y600-1350, primi piatti from Y1100-1800 and secondi from Y1800-3000. Several great wines by the glass are a steal at Y700 and up. [Show more] [Show less] Kamakura, Hase 1-14-26. Open 11:30am-1:30, 6-8:30pm (LO). Closed Mon, 2nd, 4th Tue.
The main drag from Kamakura station to the beach is lined with cafes, fast food and family restaurants. Kua-aina stands out by virtue of its terrace and its reliable mahi-mahi sandwiches.
Yuigahama 4-3-9. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Mondays.
Housed in a beautiful early Showa-era bank building, this tiny, smartly designed and friendly bar serves up a nice array of single-malt whiskies, tequilas and rums. You'll also find perfectly made cocktails (including one of the best mojitos to be found anywhere!) and a changing menu of well-matched bar snacks.
Kamakura, Yuigahama 3-1-1. Open 5pm-1am (Sat, Sun 3pm-1am). Closed Mon, 3rd, 4th Tues.
It's only Starbucks, but it may be the best one in Japan. This branch is housed in a beautiful modernist residence once belonging to manga artist Yokoyama Ryuichi. Drawings of his famous Fuku-chan character adorn the back wall. Sharing the space is a counter offering fruit-sweetened confections from the Shinjuku restaurant Chaya Macrobiotic.
The best Indian food in Shonan - indeed, some say the whole of Kanto. Excellent cooking reflects all corners of India, including Madras, Bombay and Calcutta (and even a few Nepalese dishes). Well worth the detour.
Kamakura-shi, Komachi 1-6-12, Kotobuki Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Chef Morisaki has been plying his trade since 1998 in this hidden space a few blocks from Kamakura station. A local following comes nightly for the elegant presentations and novel taste combos, built mainly around fresh local fish and vegetables. Chef Morisaki has been plying his trade since 1998 in this hidden space a few blocks from Kamakura Station. A local following comes nightly for the elegant presentations and novel taste combos, built mainly around fresh local fish and vegetables.
One can order a la carte, but the omakase menu is really the way to go. A beautifully orchestrated recent meal included such dishes as ayu roe, raw local shirasu (baby sardines), grilled barracuda, and figs stuffed with yuzu, among a host of other delectables. The sake selection is small but smartly chosen. The omakase menu plus a few sakes add up to a fine dining experience at around Y7500. [Show more] [Show less] Kamakura, Komachi 2-10-18. Open 11am-2, 5-10pm. Closed Mondays.
Good Vietnamese cooking in a casual setting.
Onaricho 13-32. Open 11:30am-8:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.
This Italian-inspired cafe covers the bases with coffee variations and tiramisu, cheesecake, gelatos and other desserts. Dolce far Niente also offers a chicken curry and a pleasant array of Italian and fusion pastas. The full back bar stocks a broad range of Italian liqueurs, making it an ideal place to take a break after a long day of sightseeing.
Kamakura, Yukinoshita 1-5-34 2F. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Mondays.
Gama (Bakery). 0467-73-7076
The best bakery on the beach. This hole-in-the-wall has a couple of tables for sitting and enjoying coffee or tea with an eclectic range of baked goods while listening to Afro-pop and old ska. Fare includes toothsome focaccia seasoned with Spanish sea salt and resplendent with organic toppings such as tomato, garlic and anchovy. There are also bagels (plain, sage, yomogi and more) and various loaves. The walnut-chocolate country loaf - fresh out of the oven - is to die for.
Kamakura, Zaimokuji 5-14-18. Open 12:30-8pm. Closed Mondays, Thursdays.
Kotsubo/ Hayama
In the heart of the Zushi Marine Resort complex, the unassuming Seaside Cafe dishes up cafe standards - hamburger, chicken kara-age, curry, noodles, salads - but go for their daily fish specials, which they get from the local fish sellers in Kotsubo. The shirasu donburi (baby sardines, locally caught) is ample, cheap and very good. And the nearby wedding chapel makes for great people watching.
Zushi, Kotsubo 5-13-16. Open 9am-7pm daily.
Located in the picture-perfect fishing village of Kotsubo, Yuki Shokudou seats about twelve indoors plus a couple dozen more at outdoor picnic tables in the summer. The freshest local catch is served in gigantic portions - either raw, fried, steamed or grilled - all at very reasonable prices. And don't overlook the shirasu ramen, a house specialty. Bring a big appetite and few friends to share the ample and tasty fare.
Zushi, Kotsubo 5-2-11. Open 11:30am-3pm (weekends -8pm). Closed Tuesdays.
Apart from the well-heeled inhabitants of Zushi Marina, few tourists make it to the little fishing port at Kotsubo. That's why this cozy, bistro-look Italian remains a well-kept secret. A bit pricy, but the quality is good.
Zushi-shi, Kotsubo 4-4-7. (Kotsubo reachable by bus from Kamakura.) Open 11:30am-2pm; 5:30-9pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Fresh local fish is on the daily changing menu at this quaint Hayama eatery. Antique radios and other relics from a time when life was less hectic add a homey, beach-house feel. The food is simple and satisfying, and the prices are superb.
Hayama-machi, Horiuchi 1815. Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:30pm daily.
A waterfront restaurant of note serving top-quality French cuisine with a beautiful view of the bay, Izu and Fuji-san from its upstairs dining rooms. The ground floor is a dining bar, with good snacks and live jazz on Saturday nights. Beware the dress code (no shorts for men or thong sandals on anyone). Dinner runs around Y6,000-8,000 per person.
Hayama-machi, Horiuchi 24-2. (near Hayama Marina (bus from Zushi)) Open noon-2:30, 5:30-9pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Kikusuitei reopened after a four-year hiatus with a new menu (no longer exclusively Italian). The quality of the cooking is quite average, but the premises are now much smarter, and the riverside patio is still a fine place to while away an evening.
Yokosuka-shi
Acceptable Mediterranean food and wine, notable for its wonderful location. High above the waves but set well away from the coast road, this has to be the ultimate romantic sundowner spot.
Yokosuka-shi, Akiya 5575. (bus from Zushi or Yokusuka) Open 11:30am-9:45pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Taverna Rondino (Italian). 0467-25-4355
