Shinjuku station
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Din Tai Fung - Dim sum: Shinjuku
Fantastic, authentic Taiwanese-style dumplings; including the hot-broth-filled shoronpo dumplings for which they're most famous.
Breizh Cafe Creperie - Cafe: Shinjuku
Delicious Bretagne-style artisanal sweet crepes and savory buckwheat galettes are served along with hard cider and soft drinks imported from the region. When the weather permits, there's nice...
Tsunahachi - Tempura: Shinjuku
Fresh, skillfully prepared tempura at friendly prices in one of this chain's several Shinjuku branches.
Imahan - Shabu-shabu: Shinjuku
Shabu-shabu and sukiyaki made with Ohmi beef, from Y3800 at dinner. Lunch is Y2300-2500.
Katsukura - Tonkatsu: Shinjuku
Besides the usual tonkatsu they offer variations like deep-fried shrimp and scallops, yuba (tofu skin) croquettes, and nice side dishes like chawanmushi, tofu salad and kakuni stewed pork. The...
Tenkuni - Tempura: Shinjuku
Deluxe, full-course tempura dinners - nine or ten pieces plus side orders - are priced Y4,000-10,000 at this convenient branch of an old tempura shop with a 120-year history.
Standard Deli - Sandwiches/burgers: Shinjuku
You've probably seen it as you walk from Shinjuku station to Takashimaya Times Square - a nicely landscaped terrace, a bright yellow sign, and a metallic, retro-50s trailer home that's been converted...
Slappy Cakes - American: Shinjuku
Gourmet pancakes are the big draw at this popular Oregon-based breakfast restaurant, where they come in interesting variations like Banana-Chocolate Chip with Raspberry Jam; and Roast Mushrooms,...
Coca Shinjuku - Thai: Shinjuku
Thai-style "sukiyaki" (fish balls and other delicacies boiled in a broth at your table) is the specialty of this Bangkok-based chain.
Gumbo and Oyster Bar - Seafood: Shinjuku
The oysters on the half shell here are top quality and are priced accordingly - prices on a recent visit ranged from Y460-700 per piece, with imported Kumamoto oysters from Washington state at the...
Shinjuku station to Meiji-dori
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Samurai - Jazz kissaten: Shinjuku
Thousands of maneki neko (good-luck cat statues) fill the interior of this spacious cafe-bar. There's a counter and several tables, making this a good venue for a small party. Service is friendly...
Kaijin - Ramen: Shinjuku
The delicate but flavorful very seafood-based shio broth at this ramen shop is made from the catch of the day - a mix of several types of fish in season. Equally unusual are the toppings - chicken...
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Daidaiya - Asian fusion: Shinjuku
Spectacular "nouvelle Japonaise" cuisine in a stunning modern setting. Standout items on the menu include cold stuffed cabbage kimchee with cashew nuts, minced tuna and Korean bean paste...
Hibiki Shinjuku-ten - Izakaya: Shinjuku
This upscale chain izakaya is known for their excellent grilled meats and vegetables and their well-chosen sake and shochu lists. The decor is sleek Japanese modern. Budget around Y6000-7000 per...
Tsukada Nojo - Japanese regional: Shinjuku
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000...
Kurawanka - Kyushu: Shinjuku
Japanese regional dishes from various parts of the country. Lunch from Y700, full-course dinners for Y5,000-Y10,000. There's also an a la carte menu, and many regional sake brands.
Kakiden - Kaiseki: Shinjuku
Kaiseki service at accessible prices, although the nightly koto performances are a bit cliched. An 18-course mini-kaiseki menu is Y8000.
Tatsukichi - Kushiage: Shinjuku
You'll find high-quality skewered morsels that are deep-fried with a light touch here, and ordering is simple - just tell them when to stop. (Don't worry, you can specify in advance any ingredients...
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Tsunahachi Tsunohazuan - Tempura: Shinjuku
The deluxe edition of one of Tokyo's most famous tempura shops, with prices starting at Y2500 for lunch and Y6000 for tempura dinner.
La Verde - Italian: Shinjuku
Very good budget pastas and other Italian fare, a good wine selection and convenient hours.
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Shousuke Shinjuku Sono - Yakitori: Shinjuku
Excellent grilled chicken, sushi and much more in this glitzy, high-rise branch of the popular Shinjuku yakitori restaurant. There's a good selection of premium sake to go with your food; dinner...
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Tsunahachi - Tempura: Shinjuku
The main branch of one of Japan's most successful tempura restaurants. They've maintained their high standards while managing to keep prices very reasonable. Call ahead of time to avoid waiting on...
North of Shinjuku-dori
Keawjai - Thai: Shinjuku
Top-quality "Imperial" Thai cuisine, from a newish branch of this long-established Tokyo Thai restaurant. Budget around Y2500 for food at dinnertime.
Vin Vino Brule - Wine bar: Shinjuku
An impressive selection of wines from around the world, varying from the reasonably priced to the very extravagant. They also do up a nice cheese platter. The atmosphere is more formal than average.
Meal Muji - Cafe: Shinjuku
Stylishly modern and surprisingly spacious, Meal Muji makes a pleasant retreat from the crowds of Shinjuku's shopping district. The decor is bright and cheerful, with ubiquitous sleek blond wood...
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Agio (Isetan) - Italian: Shinjuku
A lively "market-style" restaurant, with the emphasis on top-quality ingredients and simple preparation. Grilled meats and seafood, brick-oven-baked pizzas and assorted pastas make up most of the...
Chaya Macrobiotic Rest. - French: Shinjuku
Health-oriented but not really vegetarian fare (there are lots of fish dishes) in a casual French style.
La Table d'Hediard - French: Shinjuku
Good French cooking and reasonably priced wines at this casual department-store restaurant; the menu features dishes like duck confit and mushroom salad and excellent grilled lamb chops. Prix-fixe...
Chang-pha - Thai: Shinjuku
Inexpensive Thai street-market fare, including lots of stir-fries and curries in the Y800 range.
El Flamenco - Spanish: Shinjuku
Live flamenco dancing is the main draw at this long-running Shinjuku institution. The music charge is Y3675, but Y4500 will get you a mixed tapas platter and a drink in addition to the show. Other...
Kushinobo - Kushiage: Shinjuku
A branch of one of Tokyo's best kushiage chains. (Kushiage is deep-fried meat, seafood and vegetable morsels served on skewers.)
Akiji Suishin - Japanese regional: Shinjuku
Seafood from the Hiroshima area is the specialty here, including oysters in season. Budget around Y3500 at dinnertime, Y1100 for lunch.
3-chome station area
Hina - Sushi: Shinjuku
The Hina chain is known for their good-quality, all-you-can-eat sushi meals, starting at around Y4200 per person.
To The Herbs - Italian: Shinjuku
Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe chain. Open all afternoon.
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Brooklyn Parlor - Cafe: Shinjuku
Whether you're here for a dessert break, a casual evening meal, or an afternoon working on your laptop, Brooklyn Parlor supplies a fun, bustling backdrop. Unlike Tokyo's many quiet, hidden-away...
Toriyoshi (Shinjuku #2) - Yakitori: Shinjuku
Yakitori, fried chicken, and other varieties of chicken, along with some interesting regional specialities of the Nagoya area.
Tiki Tiki - Misc. Southeast Asian: Shinjuku
Check Modernist austerity at the door and step into a Hollywood fantasy of Hawaii circa 1961, when the film Blue Hawaii propelled Elvis Presley to new heights of stardom. At Tokyo's original Tiki...
Il Bacaro - Italian: Shinjuku
The stand-up bar at the front of Il Bacaro has a nice casual feel to it. You can drop in for a few minutes, have a quick glass of wine and a tiny snack, and be on your way. Or you can claim a seat...
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Chinese Cafe Eight - Chinese: Shinjuku
You'll find great Peking Duck here - just Y3680 for a portion big enough for three or four people - plus a big menu of surprisingly inexpensive dumplings and small-plate dishes.
Bosphoras Hasan - Turkish: Shinjuku
One of the better Turkish restaurants in town, Bosphoras offers a wide selection of shish kebabs, Turkish pizzas, salads, and other authentic fare. There's a belly dance show at 8pm on Wednesday,...
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Donjaca (Suehiro-dori) - Izakaya: Shinjuku
Superlative izakaya-style fare in a lively, noisy setting. They have an impressive and ever-changing selection of jizake (regional sake), plus good sashimi and grilled fish. Intriguing...
Marugo Grande - Wine bar: Shinjuku
This is the largest of several branches of this very popular budget wine bar in the neighborhood. Most wines by the glass are Y500-900, but you can spend a lot more on a special bottle if you're so...
Marugo - Wine bar: Shinjuku
While Marugo's laid-back modern interior recalls Manhattan, the tuxedo-clad staff is pure Tokyo. But don't let appearances fool you: the service is mannerly and attentive but never stuffy at this...
Istanbul - Turkish: Shinjuku
Tasty and reasonably priced Turkish food in a comfortable, cozy room.
Marugo II - Wine bar: Shinjuku
This second branch of the popular and always-packed Marugo wine bar serves two dozen wines by the glass, about half of them French, with a new selection every day. The food menu is Italian and very...
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Shousuke - Yakitori: Shinjuku
You won't find many chain restaurants on this block. Unlike the crowded, higher-rent districts nearer Shinjuku station, this slice of 3-chome west of Meiji-dori has long been the home of quirkier...
Kowloon - Chinese: Shinjuku
Noodles, stir-fries and other typical Hong Kong-style street stall dishes, prepared exceptionally well. Their "dragon ramen" has giant, tasty chunks of kakuni (stewed pork) and a bit of octopus for...
Esogie - African: Shinjuku
Esogie's owner Lucky Isiwe has recreated a little slice of Lagos in Shinjuku San-Chome. Nigerian funk plays on the bar's powerful sound system, and there's always something good cooking on the stove...
Cona - Italian: Shinjuku
Inexpensive late-night pizzas and drinks in a very casual setting. Wines are Y1900 per bottle or Y500 by the glass, and all pizzas and side dishes are Y500 each.
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Dora - Izakaya: Shinjuku
This basement branch of the Donjaca chain offers a wide menu of izakaya-style fare and Japanese sake. The Japanese dishes are much better than their multi-cultural experiments.
Donjaca (honten) - Izakaya: Shinjuku
Inexpensive jizake (regional sake) and good grilled fish. Seating can get a little cramped during peak hours, so check out the much larger Suehiro-dori branch just around the corner. No...
Nagi Golden - Ramen: Shinjuku
An excellent late-night ramen shop conveniently located in one of Tokyo's funkier entertainment zones. The thick noodles come in a richly flavored, anchovy-intense broth with big chunks of chashu. ...
Moto - Bar: Shinjuku
Nihonshu Stand Moto is a very informal bar that specializes in nihonshu, in this case quite a good selection of it at fairly reasonable prices. The food menu is fairly simple - small sake-friendly...
Kabukicho
Shinanoya - Liquor shop: Shinjuku Kabukicho
A good selection of wines and spirits and a dozen or so European beers at discount prices, plus random imported food items.
Narcis - Jazz kissaten: Shinjuku Kabukicho
The bustling Kabukicho neighborhood may seem like a strange place for a jazz kissa, but Narcis is a great spot for listening to quiet jazz, and their stylish interior design is reminiscent of old...
Niimura (honten) - Shabu-shabu: Shinjuku Kabukicho
Friendly service and high-quality shabu-shabu available until the wee hours of the morning.
Calico - Cat cafe: Shinjuku Kabukicho
This more centrally located branch of Calico in Kichijoji, one of Tokyo's pioneering cat cafes, is staffed with dozens of cats. The entry fee is Y1000 per hour, and food and drink are also...
ZuZu - Bar: Shinjuku Kabukicho
The smart drink list offers eleven choices of popular umeshu like Saika and Kakutama, plus a few liqueurs based on anzu (apricot), yuzu and even decopon (the orange-tangerine hybrid). Lots of...
Hazelburn - Bar: Shinjuku Kabukicho
With its brick walls, purple barstools and homey Scottish tablecloths, Hazelburn has a relaxed atmosphere that even first-time visitors will find inviting. It feels almost like walking into a...
Kotatsu - Ramen: Shinjuku Kabukicho
Miso ramen is the recommended bowl at this late-night shop located in a rather colorful corner of Kabukicho.
Alps - Izakaya: Shinjuku Kabukicho
Alps isn't exactly destination dining, but sometimes it's good to know a place where you can just show up with a group of twenty people and no reservation. Plus they're open until 9am every night...
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Sungari - Russian: Shinjuku Kabukicho
Well-prepared Russian standards like Chicken Kiev, and lots of vodka.
2-chome / Gyoenmae
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Krungtep - Thai: Shinjuku
This casual spot offers simple market-style Thai food with good, authentic flavors, plus an inexpensive wine list.
Pit Inn - Jazz club: Shinjuku
It may be smoky and cramped, but you can hear some of the most interesting local and international jazz in town here.
http://www.pit-inn.com/
Arty Farty - Gay bar: Shinjuku
One of Shinjuku's larger gay bars, with a good sound system (mostly house, R&B and hiphop) and a comfortable, lounge-style setup.
Advocates - Gay bar: Shinjuku
An open-air DJ bar with a mostly gay crowd and non-stop house music.
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Sansar - Nepalese: Shinjuku
Excellent curries, tandoori items, and Nepalese specialties from an all-Nepali crew. The chapati is outstanding.
Fun - Chinese: Shinjuku
Great nouvelle Chinese cuisine, with filling multi-course dinner menus from Y3500.
Pelota - Spanish: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
This handy Spanish wine bar offers ten wines by the glass, priced at around Y600-900, plus good tapas dishes to go with them. Budget around Y3000 in the evening for food and drink.
Jip - Wine bar: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
If you've ever wanted to try Japanese wines, but don't want to gamble with buying completely unknown bottles, Jip Bar is the place to check out. This specialty wine bistro pours from a rotating list...
Bosphorus Hasan (Shinjuku 2-chome) - Turkish: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
One of Tokyo's better Turkish spots, offering a good selection of shish kebabs, Turkish pizzas, salads, and other authentic fare. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime.
Zuien Bekkan - Chinese: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
This long-time neighborhood standby is nearly as famous for their rude service and painfully crowded seating arrangements as for their food, which is quite good.
Papera - Indian: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
The lunchtime buffet offers four curries and a few side dishes, but the lunch sets might be a better deal if you know what you want. Lunch sets include one or two curries, salad, drinks and nan or...
Cocoro Musubi - Izakaya: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
Sake is the star at this friendly little izakaya, with a smallish menu of charcoal-grilled seafood, meat and vegetables designed to go well with your drinks. Budget around Y6000 in the evening for...
Chef's - Chinese: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
Fairly reliable Chinese cooking, including Shanghai-style crab. Budget around Y5000-7000 at dinnertime.
Bamboo Beer Pub - Beer bar: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
The four craft beers on tap on any given day generally include a mix of interesting Japanese and US small breweries.
La Boheme - Italian: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
This spacious multi-level branch of the budget Italian chain is open all afternoon, and convenient when you're visiting Shinjuku Gyoen.
Aureole - Western: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
European-style home cooking, wrap sandwiches and other "wrap cuisine" is the focus of the menu at this casual park-side cafe. Full-course vegetarian dinners are available, and everything on the menu...
Le Bistrot da Cote - French: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
Rich, hearty traditional French cuisine in a crowded bistro-style restaurant near Shinjuku Gyoen.
Armwood Cottage - Cafe: Shinjuku Gyoen-mae
True to its name, the Armwood Cottage is Tokyo's answer to a log cabin in the mountains, with tall concrete buildings standing in for trees. The space is intimate and inviting, dominated by rough...