One of the better dining choices in the Kanazawa station area, Daiba offers creative izakaya fare, with lots of local Kaga dishes like jibuni duck stew and steamed heirloom Kaga vegetables. The sashimi moriawase is reliably good, and our two-person serving (Y2600) was actually big enough for three or four. Grilled chicken and pork are beautifully prepared, as is the chicken tsukune and the excellent dobin mushi (autumn only).

The sake list is relatively small but well-chosen, showcasing local breweries. Their special selection of rare and limited-edition super-premium sakes is a definite draw for sake connoisseurs. There's also a monthly selection of umeshu (plum wine) and the usual shochu and cocktail options.

The sprawling interior is modern and chic, with a gold color scheme and nice visual contrast between rough-hewn granite surfaces and polished wood. Many of the booth areas are separated by drop-down screens - you can still hear and see your neighbors, but it's a little more private and it cuts down on wafting cigarette smoke. Budget around Y4000-6000 for dinner and drinks. Daiba also has several other branches around town.

by Robb Satterwhite