More than just good food, Wada delivers an entertaining dining experience. The black-and-red, mirror-and-plexiglass decor is reminiscent of an upscale hotel lobby: there's a giant-screen TV showing food being prepared, a large ikebana arrangement on a marble pedestal, an elaborate crystal chandelier and a gleaming chrome wine cellar - and that's just the entrance. The kitchen staff are decked out in snappy red uniforms, while the waiters wear tasteful black outfits suitable for a private club. Service is fast and very professional - all the more impressive since we visited on opening weekend.

The food menu is full of pleasant surprises - innovative flavor combinations, unexpected but well-tuned ingredients, and dramatic presentation. On a recent visit the 7-course "Grand Mint" prix-fixe menu (Y2625) started with an unusual, almost dessert-like combination of ama-ebi (shrimp) mousse and gingko-nut sesame tofu, served in a pretty cut-glass egg. Next up was a nicely textured Hiroshima-style shinjo seafood dumpling in a tasty broth with matsutake mushrooms floating around. The deep-fried course featured an intriguing and successful combination of soft turnips wrapped in pork and fried tempura-style, along with seasonal vegetables and a tart mustard sauce.

The award for most entertaining presentation went to the wine-stewed Kobe beef cheeks with a contrasting black-sesame sauce. This came in a huge earthenware bowl that was about ten times bigger than it needed to be, decorated by the chef with a calligraphic pattern of mustard lines and flower petals. The rice course (seasonal mushroom rice) continued the earthenware theme, and the accompanying pickles were absolutely first rate - always a good sign.

An alternative option is the "Mint Castle" lunch (Y1890), with five "micro" dishes perched on the rungs of a spiral plexiglas tower; there's also a "Presidential" lunch (Y5040) if you really want to splurge. The evening menu is oriented more towards couples than lone shoppers - the prix-fixe dinners, which range from Y3675-10,500, are served to two or more people, while the a la carte menu veers off into expensive-land. Wines start in the surprisingly modest Y2500 range (Calterra from Chile), and the sake list includes some interesting, offbeat choices including a couple of good yamahai selections.

by Robb Satterwhite