We were lounging on a comfortable sofa with iced tea in hand, listening to Brazilian jazz and browsing a magazine when a hissing sound in one corner of the room brought us to attention.

Heads turned to look. There was a pause in the stream of music. Then the cafe's proprietor moved in swiftly to quell the disturbance, and the prevailing calm atmosphere at "Neko no Jikan" ("Time for Cats") was restored.

The overall ambience here is quite relaxed - customers tend to speak in lowered voices, and the soft background soundtrack ranges from vocal jazz to '90s trip-hop. The eighteen resident cats seem acclimated to their job of being petted and photographed (no flash, please) by admiring visitors.

Many exotic breeds are represented - Norwegian Forest Cats, Ragdolls, Maine Coon cats - and they range from regally stylish to endearingly funny-looking. Cats of all colors and personalities prowl the two spacious rooms, inspecting newcomers and their drinks or looking for a suitable spot in which to nap. The first room is furnished human-style, with sofas, low coffee tables and shelves filled with cat-related books and knick-knacks. The other room is more like a cat playground, with trees for climbing, a water fountain and litter-box facilities.

The routine at Neko no Jikan is typical of the cafes where we hang out - take off your shoes, leave your name at the reception counter, hold out your hands to be spayed with disinfectant, stow your bag in a glassed-in closet. At the counter you can order tea or coffee, beer, or one of their numerous original cocktails. The pace is life is generally slow, enlivened by a flurry of activity at feeding time - 3:15 on the Monday afternoon we visited - when the cafe proprietor claps her hands and cats rush in from all corners to assemble for lunch.

Afternoons tend to be busiest in terms of customers, while bar time (after 6pm) is quieter. During cafe time (before 6pm), Y1000 will get you sixty minutes of quality cat time plus a beverage of your choice (Y50 extra for drinks with alcohol). After 6pm there's a Y1000 cover charge, no time limit, and Y500 per drink. Smoking is allowed only in the bar area, and only after 6pm. There's no English spoken and no English menus.

Check their website (www.nekojikan.com) for maps, holiday notices and many, many photos of cats.

by Robb Satterwhite