Takada Shinichiro augments his classical Osaka training with influences he acquired as a chef in New York and Australia. As such he serves traditional kaiseki with a cosmopolitan edge. Sliced mozzarella with tsukemono (pickles) in balsamic sauce; firefly squid and vinegared miso; scallops with jumping fish, wasabi and shiso sprouts all combine the sweet and savoury fundamentals of Japanese cuisine with sophistication.

The simple elegance of the food at Grotto is echoed in the design. Nishibori Shin, known for his work at Muji and Apple, has lent his understated hand to the interior. Diners and passersby exchange glances through the large plate-glass window that affords a broad view of the streetscape. As there is no a la carte menu, ordering at Grotto is uncomplicated, but if you would like details of your repast Mr. Takada can explain in Japanese and English. Take a few ideas home.

Budget Y6000 per person, including drinks.