Pleasure, imagination, use; Yusoshi is a hybrid of these three words and is a downtown hangout for the Oike set. Comme des Garcons patrons come here after racking up purchases in the CDG shop downstairs. And they come here to smoke Kool cigarettes. The set menu is a choice of three small dishes - chicken balls in tomato sauce, fried lotus root sandwich and battered white fish is the best combination - plus miso soup and rice for Y850.

The coconut parfait with dango, azuki beans, matcha and coconut ice cream is huge, and hugely popular. Desserts start from Y550; Japanese and Chinese teas from Y500. The large interior has a backlit moonscape covering one wall. As afternoon progresses into early evening, a bottle of wine at Y2730-3680 is a good investment. The staff will help navigate the Japanese-only menu.