The dynamic menu at the Tranq Room is testimony to Yukihide Hirata's quest for the exotic. He hit that target recently with his all-organic Nama-yuba Donburi - shimeji mushrooms and fried tofu in a konbu-katsuo broth topped with raw tofu skin. The Indian curry set menus are the staple here - available all day for Y800, plus an extra Y200 for a drink.

Green-tea scones, tofu cheesecake and black sesame ice cream are but a few of the desserts available, and the drink selection includes banana shakes and Milo. Bottles of Wyndham Estate Shiraz, Chardonnay and sparkling wine are Y3000 each.

The resident DJ is whoever is working, unless a live performance is scheduled. Sam Seimiya and his tap-dance troupe are a perennial favorite, playing the last Sunday of every month at 6-ish. A ten-minute walk from Tetsugaku-no-michi (the Path of Philosophy) Tranq Room is close to the sights but far from the throng.

by Justin Ellis