Ace Cafe has a new cousin - Ace Cafe Red. On the ninth floor of the Takase Building on Sanjo-dori, it has a similar elevation to Ace Cafe but takes it up a notch with the view. The lights of Kawabata-dori trail off into the northern foothills, Minamiza Theater beckons from the south and the ascending moon over Higashiyama is so clear it looks like a High Definition recording.

The cafe is L-shaped, with soft lighting and photo-images of Concord on the brushed-concrete walls. There is a lounge on the south side and stools at the bar for pre-dinner cocktails. A faux tile wall and the napkins are indeed, red.

The food is casual dining, akin to Ace Cafe. A smoked chicken salad (Y850) with crisp grilled cheese and coddled egg is a tangled but tasty affair. The fried potato chips (Y580) are long with a crunch and the carbonara is rich and creamy. Tiramisu affogato (Y740) is a misnomer for a generic chocolate cake with layers of vanilla ice cream but the coffee is excellent.

The house wines change every month but at Y750 a glass, bottles (Y3670) are far better value. When the DJ booth is empty remixes of soul and funk classics such as Bill Withers a la gamelan keep the twenty-something crowd toe tapping. For the view alone, Ace Cafe Red is good for a cocktail. Or a couple of cocktails. Pommery Blush is Y6300 a bottle if you feel like celebrating. Budget Y6500 for two, including drinks.

by Justin Ellis