Some of Kyoto's best tempura can be found at this intimate, tastefully appointed shop run by the top-class Tawaraya ryokan. The building is a modern grey concrete construction, with an art gallery on the ground floor and a wind-y staircase taking you up to the minimalist counter spaces on the second and third levels. Tenyu is best known for its tempura kaiseki menu (from Y12,600), but lunchtime donburi dishes are far less expensive (Y2300-4000). By the way, they don't take credit cards, so bring along lots of cash.