This old-fashioned hideaway bar is notable for their excellent Japanese real ale (Yona Yona) on draft as well as their single-malt scotch collection. The food is mainly pastas and other light items. [feedback]

Chayamachi 1-5, Chayamachi Chabindo Bldg. B1F. (on the little street running between EST and Ings, about 1 min. past Ings on the left, just past a soccer shop and downstairs from a large karaoke establishment) Open 4pm-1am. Closed Mondays.

You'll find inexpensive but good-quality pastas, pizzas from a wood-fired oven and more substantial Italian fare at this popular Kanto-based chain. This wine list is similarly budget-friendly. [feedback]

Chayamachi 15-22, Urban Terrace Chayamachi A-3F. Open 11:30am-3:30am (LO) daily.

"Healthy ethnic cuisine" is the theme at Monsoon Cafe, and you'll find dishes inspired by various Asian cuisines in a festive, resort-themed dining space. [feedback]

Chayamachi 15-22, Urban Terrace Chayamachi A-4F. Open 11:30am-3:30am (LO) daily.

This cave-inspired space offers a full food menu - meat and fish mains, pizzas, risotti - to go with your wine. Numerous wines from throughout the world are served by the 100ml glass, or in 30ml tasting sizes. [feedback]

Chayamachi 10-12, NU Chayamachi B1F. Open 11am-2, 5pm-1am (LO) daily.

This quiet, well-hidden bar has plenty of space spread out over three floors, and they offer a good selection of whiskey and bourbon, cocktails and a few Japanese craft beers, as well as an inexpensive food menu. [feedback]

Chayamachi 13-9. (walk N on the street running along the E side of Umeda sta about 3 min. N of the station, turn R (just before Chayamachi Applause and the Hotel Hankyu International)) Open 6pm-2am (5am weekends) daily.

Absynthe cocktails are the specialty here; they also serve a nice, extensive menu of Greek/Mediterranean specialties all day long. [feedback]

Kita-Horie 1-16-18. Open 11:30am-3am. Closed Tuesdays.

A big bar serving good hamburgers and lunchtime sandwiches; they even have poutine, that mysterious French-Canadian dish involving fried potatoes, cheese and gravy. There's a games room in the back, and a good sound system. [feedback]

Kita-Horie 2-5-10. Open noon-4pm, 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.

Bunny's paella is chock full of seafood - squid, shrimp, mussels and clams - along with a healthy dose of chorizo, lamb, chicken and, most importantly, saffron-infused rice. It is but one of the ways Bunny and his lovely wife Azusa transport their customers, via their taste buds, to the land of flamenco, olives and sherry. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Kita-Horie 1-22-26, Casa Kitahorie 1F. (from Nishi-Ohashi station exit 4 walk 1 block south and turn right) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30pm-late. Closed Mondays.

Another jewel in the El Poniente Spanish-food empire, this is a more casual tapas-bar setup, an easy spot to grab a glass of wine and a snack after work. [feedback]

Hiranomachi 1-6-11. (from Kitahama Sta exit 5 go 2 blocks S, turn left at Hiranocho 1 crossing; it's the second block on the right side) Open 3pm-2:30am (LO). Closed Sundays.

Five floors of okonomiyaki action here at Chibo headquarters overlooking the river. Actually the top floor - called "President Chibo" - specializes in grilled steaks. [feedback]

Dotonbori 1-5-5. Open 11am-2am daily.

This all-night Dotonbori landmark with the gigantic dragon on top serves a very popular Kyushu-style tonkotsu (pork broth) ramen. Help yourself to unlimited garlic, kimchi and pickles from the toppings station. There are a few more branches in the neighborhood in case this one is full. [feedback]

Dotenbori 1-7-26. Open 24 hours a day.

Like many other retired sumo wrestlers, the popular Wakanohana has opened a chanko-nabe restaurant, but this one stands out for its modern approach in the kitchen - you'll find unusual side dishes (like Vietnamese spring rolls), interesting "toppings" for your chanko, and even a wine list. [feedback]

Dotonbori 1-7-19, Nakaza C'est La Vie Square 2F. Open 11am-5am daily.

The Daidaiya chain serves some of the most interesting Japanese food around - mostly fusion-oriented, with excellent grilled meats, modern sushi variations and creative original dishes. Daidaiya is also known for their stunning interior design, and this branch is no exception. [feedback]

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 1-16-29. (on Shimizudori, 4 blocks S, 2 1/2 blocks E of Midosuji-Nagahori crossing) Open 5pm-1am (3am weekends). Open every day.

Known as the "beer dining" branch of Dolphins, they offer mussels, frites and other Belgian and French fare along with plenty of Belgian beers. [feedback]

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 1-8-14. (from Shinsaibashi sta. exit 5 walk E about 5 min, just past the Minami-Shogakko (elementary school); also accessible from Nagahoribashi sta. exit 7 - walk W about 1 1/2 blocks) Open 4pm-1am daily.

Thai pop music blares from the little food stall right out on the street, where take-out Thai dishes are available until midnight. Inside is a small cafe-style space and art gallery; the food is an assortment of Thai and other Asian standards and original dishes. [feedback]

Higashi-Shinsaibashi 1-17-2. Open 5:30pm-2am daily.

The prices on the menu outside Akashiya are in U.S. dollars and the sign reads: we have loco food. Does this mean crazy or local? It's a little of both. Masa, your congenial host, will cook up an Osaka culinary storm of akashiyaki (takoyaki in a light soup), ikayaki (grilled squid) and handmade gyoza. And what could be better than a glass of super-strong Samurai sake to wash it down with? The daily set menu is Y2500 on weekdays and Y2100 on weekends, when Kita-shinchi slows down a little. The set includes a fish dish, gyoza, rice, pickles, and of course, akashiyaki. [feedback]

Dojima 1-3-23, Osakaya Kita-shinchi Bldg B1F. Open 5pm -2am (LO). Closed Mondays.

The provincial cuisine of Bretagne (Brittany) is the specialty here, including some 40 varieties of galettes (savory buckwheat crepes). Lunch is served till 3pm, and in the evenings the bar is open till 2:30am; the regular food menu is served till 11pm. The interior is huge and spaciously laid out, and outdoor terrace seating is also available. [feedback]

Dojima-Hama 1-4-27, Dojima Nakamachi Bldg. 1F. (1 min. from exit C-92 Kita-Shinchi station Dojima Chika Center) Open 11:30am-3am daily.

If you crave an environment of religious statuary, massive chandeliers and bordello-ready plush sofas when you dine out, we've got just the place for you. The over-the-top decor and late-night hours are the main draw, but the menu is also entertaining - Chinese- and Spanish-inspired nibbles accompany a bewildering assortment of cocktails. [feedback]

Komatsubaracho 4-29. Open 5pm-4am daily.

The sophisticated interior here comes as a surprise amid all the noisy game arcades on this street, as does the upscale Japanese-fusion cuisine. Menu highlights include "modern" sushi (foie gras, for example) and other inventive original dishes. [feedback]

Komatsubaracho 1-16, Umeda-Moco Bldg. 1F. Open 5pm-1am (5am weekends). Open every day.

More of a bar than a restaurant, with counter seating on the main level and lounge-y sofas upstairs. They offer a limited Italian food menu, and serve Belgian beers as well as Italian wines. [feedback]

Dojima-Hama 1-1-9. (on the N bank of the river, just W of Midosuji) Open 5pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Sundays.

The splashy modern-Japanese decor is all part of the fun at En, but the excellent food and sake are just as big a draw. It's all pretty straightforward izakaya standards - sashimi, grilled fish and chicken, tofu - but beautifully prepared from premium ingredients. [feedback]

Sonezaki 2-15-20, Swing Umeda Bldg 2F. (1 block E of Sonezaki police sta.) Open 5pm-1am daily.

Ippudo's Hakata-style ramen noodles, served in a surprisingly rich pork broth, draw the crowds here every night. It's worth the occasional wait. [feedback]

Kakudacho 6-7, Kakudacho Building 1F. (across street from Navio Hankyu) Open 11am-3am daily.

This long-running club has a varied music schedule during the week, and inexpensive lunches at midday. [feedback]

Sonezaki Shinchi 1-5-18. Open 11:30am-4am daily.

Miyazaki free-range chicken is the main ingredient at Kuruma, with chicken sukiyaki and chicken shabu-shabu supplementing the usual yakitori menu. The tasteful interior is plusher than what you'd expect from the back-alley location. [feedback]

Kakudacho 6-9. (in the alley running alongside Hep Navio, next to Ippudo ramen shop) Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.

You'll find authentic Portuguese cuisine prepared by a native chef in this homey little restaurant. The food is very down-to-earth - rabbit stew, garlic-fried shrimp, grilled meats, codfish croquettes, vegetable soups. There's an impressive selection of unusual Portuguese wines, with premium wines of the day priced around Y1500 and house wines under Y1000/glass. Budget around Y5000-7000 for dinner and drinks. [feedback]

Nishi-Tenma 4-12-11. (just north of the American Consulate) Open 11am-2, 6pm-2am (food LO 10:30pm). Closed Sundays.

This cozy, cave-like Spanish wine bar serves tapas-size servings, including grilled Iberico ham and good fish and seafood dishes. Most wines are priced at Y2500/bottle; budget around Y2500 per person with wine. [feedback]

Umeda 2-1-14, Umeda Nichome Hanshin Bldg 2F. (across from the Dunhill shop in the back of Hilton Plaza West) Open 5pm-1am (LO). Closed Sundays.

With its flashy decor, cozy nooks and late-night weekend hours, this upmarket izakaya is a good venue for a date or a small get-together. The reliable and very original food menu includes tofu and yuba dishes, grilled meats and seasonal vegetables. [feedback]

Umeda 2-1-21, Let's Umeda Bldg 2F. Open 5-11:30pm (to 5am Fri, Sat) daily.

Grilled fish and other izakaya fare in a lively, extremely casual setting. An English menu is available, and prices are reasonable. [feedback]

Nawate-agaru 2-suji-me Shijo-dori, Higashi-kita-kado Sueyoshi-cho. (on Nawate 2 corners N of Shijo) Open 6pm-4am daily.

Designer Italian fare and an excellent Italian wine-bar in this architecturally ambitious two-story restaurant. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Benzaitencho 17, Sfera Building 4F. (W side of Nawate, 2 1/2 blocks north of Shijo) Open 6pm-3am. Closed Wednesdays.

Run by the Actus furniture store, this very stylish cafe serves everything from dessert and coffee to full Tuscan dinners, with dishes like stewed rabbit. Wines range from Y2000 to Y50,000, with the median around Y3500; it's also served by the glass or carafe. Open till 1am weekends. [feedback]

Karasuma-dori Shijo-sagaru, Suiginyacho 620 Cocon Karasuma 2F. (on W side of Karasuma-dori, just S of Shijo) Open 11am-midnight daily.

Ippudo's Hakata-style ramen is known for its rich pork-based broth and thin, slightly chewy noodles. There are graters and garlic cloves on the counter if you're so inclined. [feedback]

Nishikikoji Higashinotoin-higashi-iru, Bantoyacho 653-1 Nishiki Bldg 1F. (on Nishiki-koji-dori one block east of Karasuma-dori) Open 11am-2am daily.

A cozy little wine bar with an extensive list - mostly French - ranging from Y6000 to Y100,000 per bottle and more (the median price point seems to be around Y15,000). There's also a choice of six different champagnes, all priced at Y8400/bottle. Food includes both light snacks (prosciutto, cheese, pastas) and a more substantial Italian-oriented main dishes (grilled fish, roast duck). Before 8pm on weekdays there's a Y2600 special that includes two dishes and a glass of wine. [feedback]

Rokkaku-dori Shinmachi-Nishi-iru. (on Rokkaku-dori just W of Shinmachi-dori, N side, through a little gate then down an alleyway) Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.

You'll find a fantastic trove of unusual, limited-edition sakes in this off-the-beaten-track sake pub. The food menu is just as eclectic, and well suited to the drinks. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Nijodori Higashinotoin Higashi-iru. (on Nijo, 2 blocks north, 2 1/2 blocks east of Karasuma Oike intersection) Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Mondays, 1st Sunday.

A very popular late-night ramen shop with a devoted following. [feedback]

Takakuradori Shiokoji-sagaru. (just S of Takakura-Shiokoji crossing, a few minutes NE of JR Kyoto station) Open 5am-2am. Closed Thursdays.

Featured in architecture and design magazines as well as restaurant guides, this beautifully repurposed space is the former lobby of a British bank built in 1938. It's a stylish spot for an afternoon coffee or an after-dinner drink (but less inspiring for dinner). [feedback]

Kaigandori 9, Chartered Building. Open 11:30am-5am daily.

This well-known Hakata ramen shop serves thin, chewy noodles in a pork-based broth ("red" or "white"), either with or without extra chashu. Numerous condiments line the counter, including spicy bean sprouts and fresh garlic. [feedback]

Kita-Nagasa-dori 4-3-24. (on Koikawasuji, about 2 blocks north of Motomachi station) Open 11am-3am daily.

This late-night budget ramen shop is perhaps the only place in town where you can find Nagasaki-style noodles - champon and sara-udon. [feedback]

Shimo-Yamate-dori 2-10-4. Open 11am-5am daily.

Noodles, seafood stews, dim sum and other budget Cantonese fare; dinner from Y2000. [feedback]

Naka-Yamate-dori 1-5-1. (from Ikuta Shinmichi go 2 blocks N on Higashimon, then turn right) Open 5pm-5am. Closed Sundays.

An unpretentious steak house with friendly service and the feel of a neighborhood hangout. Multi-course steak dinners start at Y8000, but you can also order steak a la carte (from Y4000) as well as grilled chicken, seafood, vegetables and okonomiyaki. They also have a decent wine list that's not overpriced. [feedback]

Naka-Yamate-dori 1-4-6, Yu Bell Bldg. 3F. (NE corner of Ikuta Shinmichi and Higashimon Street) Open 5pm-3am. Closed Mondays.

This very successful late-night chain from retired sumo wrestler Wakanohana serves modern chanko-nabe (the hearty stew eaten by sumo guys) with myriad toppings (gyoza, chicken meatballs), interesting starters, and wines as well as beer and sake. [feedback]

Kita-Nagasa-dori 1-9-1, B1F. Open 5pm-4am (LO); midnight Sun. daily.