Kyoto Karasuma-Oike/ City Hall
Cafe: Cafe Bibliotic Hello
Sake: Yoramu, Asakura
Budget French: Le Bouchon
Vegetarian: Kerala
Karasuma-Oike area
Sarasa is all about reasonably priced food in a huge old tobacco shop. The menu is broadly Mediterranean with a Japanese fringe, and most dishes come on large white platters that lend an air of celebration to eating here. [See FULL REVIEW.]  Sanjo Kuromon-dori Hokuto-kado. (on the corner of Sanjo-dori and Kuromon-dori, 2 streets west of Horikawa-dori in the Sanjo Shotengai) Open 11:30am-11pm (lunch to 2pm). Closed Wednesdays. | |
A cozy little wine bar with an extensive list - mostly French - ranging from Y6000 to Y100,000 per bottle and more (the median price point seems to be around Y15,000). There's also a choice of six different champagnes, all priced at Y8400/bottle. Food includes both light snacks (prosciutto, cheese, pastas) and a more substantial Italian-oriented main dishes (grilled fish, roast duck). Before 8pm on weekdays there's a Y2600 special that includes two dishes and a glass of wine.  Rokkaku-dori Shinmachi-Nishi-iru. (on Rokkaku-dori just W of Shinmachi-dori, N side, through a little gate then down an alleyway) Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays. | |
The air is fragrant with incense as you walk into this charming teahouse - newly built in 2003 and tastefully decked out with Kyoto-style artwork and furnishings. Besides tea and dessert you'll also find inexpensive food like noodles and simple rice dishes.  Karasuma Sanjo-nishi-iru. (N side of Sanjo 1 block W of Karasuma) Open 10am-9pm. Closed Wednesdays. | |
Excellent home-made tofu is the core of the menu here, with tofu-centered set meals at various price levels (Y4000-10,000). Donomaecho 250, West 18 Bldg 1F. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm (LO) daily. Chicken sukiyaki is the specialty of the house here, and they use only the very best free-range birds - slightly chewy and very flavorful - in all their dishes. Sit in the zashiki room overlooking the beautiful traditional garden and choose from one of the three sukiyaki-centered full-course menus, priced at Y4200, Y5250 and Y7350. [See FULL REVIEW.] Yanagibanba Sanjo-sagaru, Aburayacho 93. (on Yanagi-banba-dori just N of Sanjo) Open 11:30-2, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays. | |
Perched in the corner of a mini-shopping complex on Sanjo, this European-style tea room offers cakes and other desserts to go with your tea. They also sell tea leaves to go. Sanjo-dori Tominokoji-nishi-iru, Sacra Bldg 1F. (NW corner Sanjo and Tominokoji) Open 11:30am-7:30pm. Closed Wednesdays. | |
You'll find a fantastic trove of unusual, limited-edition sakes in this off-the-beaten-track sake pub. The food menu is just as eclectic, and well suited to the drinks. [See FULL REVIEW.] Nijodori Higashinotoin Higashi-iru. (on Nijo, 2 blocks north, 2 1/2 blocks east of Karasuma Oike intersection) Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Mondays, 1st Sunday. | |
This legendary soba shop first opened for business in 1465. A nice introduction to the menu is the Hourai soba with eight toppings, including shrimp tempura, mushrooms, leeks and sliced egg; it's served with Kyoto-style hors d'oeuvres as a set meal for Y2940. Regular noodle dishes start at Y735. Niomontsukinukecho 322. Open 9am-7pm daily. This converted townhouse on a quiet back street has the air of a very hip used bookstore - the comfortable chairs and tables are surrounded by shelves upon shelves of books and magazines that you're welcome to browse through. The menu includes cakes and coffees and teas (like Moroccan-style chai) as well as light snacks. Nijo Yanaginobanba. (on Nijo about 7 blocks E of Karasuma-dori) Open noon-11pm (LO) daily. | |
Kyoto City Hall area
This hip little cafe has a very comfortable atmosphere, and is plugged into the local art and underground music scene. At dinner the inexpensive menu features Mediterranean-influenced dishes like herb-grilled chicken, pork chops and risotto. Fuyacho-dori Sanjo-agaru, Benkei-Ishicho 38-1. Open noon-midnight daily. | |
Perhaps the Bohemian epicenter of Kyoto, this student-hangout basement cafe features artfully exposed brick, peeling paint and well-worn stone floors. The 75-year-old building also houses a great experimental music record shop and contemporary art galleries. Lunches are very cheap (from Y500), and drinks include Belgian beers. Gokomachi Sanjo, 1928 Bldg B1F. Open 11:45am-midnight daily. | |
This traditional shop in a lovely old building has been preparing first-class sukiyaki for 130 years now, and they're still going strong. Budget around Y8000 at dinnertime, or a bit more for their full-course extravaganzas. Teramachi Sanjo-sagaru. (Teramachi just S of Sanjo) Open 11:30am-9pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays. | |
One of the best of the tonkatsu chains, Kyoto-based Katsukura offers nice side dishes like yuba (tofu-skin) croquettes and excellent Kyoto-style pickles. And they're open all afternoon if you need a late lunch. Kawaramachi-dori Sanjo Nishi-iru. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily. A small sake pub with a fantastic selection of unusual regional sakes from around Japan. The food menu is limited to small snacks, including a wide selection of imported cheeses; if you thought sake couldn't be paired with cheese, get ready for a new experience. Kiyamachi Oike-sagaru, Hitotsu-Sujime Higashi-iru, Oku Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-2am. Closed Tuesdays. | |
Good home-made tofu is the specialty here, with multi-course tofu dinners starting from Y4859. Lunch is by reservation only. [See FULL REVIEW.] Kiyamachi-dori Sanjo-agaru, Kami-Osakamachi 517-3. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily. Luxuriously over-the-top French cuisine revolving around rich ingredients like foie gras, lobster and domestic beef. The degustation menu is Y13,000. Kawaramachi-Oike, Kyoto Hotel Okura 17F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9pm daily. | |
The chef here is from the Kerala region of India, and he prepares a full range of dishes from that area, all reasonably priced. The interior is modern and tastefully decorated. Kawaramachi Sanjo-agaru Nishigawa, Ledic Building 2F. (opposite Royal Hotel) Open 11:30am-2, 5-9pm (LO) daily. | |
Inexpensive bakery and deli items and salads from the famous no-brand design store Mujirushi. Kawaramachi-dori Sanjo-sagaru, Yamazakicho 251 Kyoto BAL B2F. Open 11am-8pm daily. | |
Accessible tofu and Kyo-ryori in attractive private alcoves in this very tasteful restaurant above Uniqlo. There are only four sakes, but they're chosen to go with the food. Prix-fixe dinners Y2800-4000, lunch from Y1500. Kawaramachi Sanjo-sagaru, Daikokucho 58 Mina Kyoto 7F. (on Kawaramachi-dori, above Uniqlo) Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Hafuu (Yoshoku). 075-257-1581 Yes, there is such a thing as gourmet yoshoku, and Hafuu leads the way with nicely prepared tongue stews, fried shrimps, cutlet sandwiches and other Japanese-style Western classics. The modern architecture is another nice change from convention, as is the wine list. Dinner runs around Y4000-5000 with drinks. Fuyacho-dori Ebisugawa-dori-agaru, Sasayacho 471-1. (Fuyacho just N of Ebisugawa) Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays. | |
The only item that polarizes diners at Kati is the Mekhong rum. Beyond this very potent brew, the menu of Thai classics has everyone in agreement - the food is good. Formerly housed in a converted warehouse, the new space is as long as the previous restaurant was broad. The pale green walls and plants have been maintained, as has the no-fuss service. [See FULL REVIEW.] Ebisugawa-dori Fuyacho Nishi-iri, Kiyacho 488-1, Wood Bldg 2F. Open noon-2pm, 5:30-10pm. Closed Mondays. | |
El Fogon is a little slice of Spain in downtown Kyoto. Serrano ham, Moorish tiles, and a terracotta floor: it could be somewhere in Andalucia. [See FULL REVIEW.] Gokomachi Oike-agaru, Kameyacho 380. (on Gokomachi-dori in the first block north of Oike-dori, on the west side) Open 3pm-3am (rest 5:30-11pm LO). Closed Wednesdays. | |
The decor is old-school budget French (checkered tablecloths, tiny tables, a big counter at one end of the room), but the menu is a cut above the decor, with good country-style cuisine at down-to-earth prices (Y2500 for a prix-fixe dinner). The wine list also offers some bargains. Nijo Teramachi Enokicho 71-1. (just E of Teramachi and Nijo) Open 8am-2:30pm, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Thursdays. | |
Park Caffe is nowhere near a park but it's a great place to watch the world go by. Sunlight streams in through the floor-to-ceiling window. A marvel of design economy, there are three seating areas; sleek LEM Piston Stools at the bar, couches along one wall, and a row of solid, brown '70s chairs and tables in the main dining area. [See FULL REVIEW.] Gokomachi-dori Oike-sagaru. (on the east side of Gokomachi-dori in the first block south of Oike-dori) Open noon-11pm daily. | |
A specialty bar with an amazing selection of rare Scotch whiskeys; the bartender also mixes good cocktails. The food menu includes the Scottish favorite haggis. Kiyamachi-dori Sanjo-sagaru, Ishiyacho 121 Matsushimaya Bldg 3F. Open 7pm-3am. Closed Wednesdays. Hub (Beer bar). 075-212-9026 This very casual beer bar attracts an assortment of tourists and representatives of Kyoto's foreign community. (Open to 3am weekends.) Kawaramachi-dori Sanjo-sagaru, Kuromachi 71. Open 5pm-midnight daily. | |
Paris-trained owner-chef Teruo Inoue prepares world-class "French kaiseki" - a fusion of modern French cuisine with a Japanese sensibility and local ingredients. The old wooden building on narrow Pontocho includes tatami rooms and a counter area, plus an outdoor veranda overlooking the Kamo River. [See FULL REVIEW.] Pontocho-dori, Sanjo-Sagaru, Higashigawa. (south of Pontocho Kaburenjo Theatre) Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9pm (LO) daily. A pleasant, medium-sized bar with a serious selection of single-malt Scotch whiskies and one very good Japanese microbrew beer (Yona Yona real ale on tap). Nijo Kiyamachi Higashi-iru, Valls Building 2F. (across the street from Hotel Fujita) Open 6pm-3am (5am weekends) daily. | |
Mini-kaiseki lunches start at just Y7000 at this 200-year-old ryokan, and there's a pleasant riverfront terrace that's open May to September. Full-blown kaiseki menus are Y14,000-20,000. They also run a casual restaurant with bentos starting from Y1030. Kiyamachi-dori Oike-agaru. (on Kiyamachi just N of Oike) Open 11:30am-1, 5:30-7pm (LO) daily. This sprawling building was once the private mansion of one of Kyoto's leading merchants, and its beautiful garden and riverfront setting make it a popular spot for parties and banquets - this is really the kind of place to go with a group of people. Set meals start at around Y3000. Kiyamachi-dori Nijo-sagaru. (on Kiyamachi-dori just S of Nijo) Open 11:30am-10pm daily. | |
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: Open late
: Open Sundays
: Notable decor
