Sarasa is all about reasonably priced food in a huge old tobacco shop. The menu is broadly Mediterranean with a Japanese fringe, and most dishes come on large white platters that lend an air of celebration to eating here. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Sanjo Kuromon-dori Hokuto-kado. (on the corner of Sanjo-dori and Kuromon-dori, 2 streets west of Horikawa-dori in the Sanjo Shotengai) Open 11:30am-11pm (lunch to 2pm). Closed Wednesdays.

A cozy little wine bar with an extensive list - mostly French - ranging from Y6000 to Y100,000 per bottle and more (the median price point seems to be around Y15,000). There's also a choice of six different champagnes, all priced at Y8400/bottle. Food includes both light snacks (prosciutto, cheese, pastas) and a more substantial Italian-oriented main dishes (grilled fish, roast duck). Before 8pm on weekdays there's a Y2600 special that includes two dishes and a glass of wine. [feedback]

Rokkaku-dori Shinmachi-Nishi-iru. (on Rokkaku-dori just W of Shinmachi-dori, N side, through a little gate then down an alleyway) Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.

As the name implies the focus at this hidden-away Italian spot is on charcoal grilled dishes, plus risotti and pastas, all at reasonable prices (full-course dinners are Y3000-6000). Drinks include shochu as well as Italian wines. [feedback]

Koromonotana-dori sanjo-sagaru, Sanjo-machi 337-2. (from Karasuma-Oike crossing go 2 blocks S, 3 blocks W, 1/2 block S) Open 11:30am-3, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

The air is fragrant with incense as you walk into this charming teahouse - newly built in 2003 and tastefully decked out with Kyoto-style artwork and furnishings. Besides tea and dessert you'll also find inexpensive food like noodles and simple rice dishes. [feedback]

Karasuma Sanjo-nishi-iru. (N side of Sanjo 1 block W of Karasuma) Open 10am-9pm. Closed Wednesdays.

Perched in the corner of a mini-shopping complex on Sanjo, this European-style tea room offers cakes and other desserts to go with your tea. They also sell tea leaves to go. [feedback]

Sanjo-dori Tominokoji-nishi-iru, Sacra Bldg 1F. (NW corner Sanjo and Tominokoji) Open 11:30am-7:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.

You'll find a fantastic trove of unusual, limited-edition sakes in this off-the-beaten-track sake pub. The food menu is just as eclectic, and well suited to the drinks. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Nijodori Higashinotoin Higashi-iru. (on Nijo, 2 blocks north, 2 1/2 blocks east of Karasuma Oike intersection) Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Mondays, 1st Sunday.

This converted townhouse on a quiet back street has the air of a very hip used bookstore - the comfortable chairs and tables are surrounded by shelves upon shelves of books and magazines that you're welcome to browse through. The menu includes cakes and coffees and teas (like Moroccan-style chai) as well as light snacks. [feedback]

Nijo Yanaginobanba. (on Nijo about 7 blocks E of Karasuma-dori) Open noon-11pm (LO) daily.

This cute little cafe offers light food (sandwiches, pastas), drinks (fruit juices, tea and coffee), and a good view of the pedestrian action on Sanjo-dori. The interior is 1960s mod (lots of Plexiglas), and there are plenty of design books and magazines to read. Upstairs is a small clothing boutique. [feedback]

Sanjo Gokomachi-hokusaikado, Sanjo Arimoto Bldg 1F. (Sanjo and Gokomachi) Open 7am-11pm daily.

Some of Kyoto's best tempura can be found at this intimate, tastefully appointed shop run by the top-class Tawaraya ryokan. The building is a modern grey concrete construction, with an art gallery on the ground floor and a wind-y staircase taking you up to the minimalist counter spaces on the second and third levels. Tenyu is best known for its tempura kaiseki menu (from Y12,600), but lunchtime donburi dishes are far less expensive (Y2300-4000). By the way, they don't take credit cards, so bring along lots of cash. [feedback]

Gokomachi Sanjo-sagaru. (on E side of Gokomachi-dori about 1/2 block S of Sanjo) Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.

Perhaps the Bohemian epicenter of Kyoto, this student-hangout basement cafe features artfully exposed brick, peeling paint and well-worn stone floors. The 75-year-old building also houses a great experimental music record shop and contemporary art galleries. Lunches are very cheap (from Y500), and drinks include Belgian beers. [feedback]

Gokomachi Sanjo, 1928 Bldg B1F. Open 11:45am-midnight daily.

A small sake pub with a good selection of unusual regional sakes from around Japan. The food menu is limited to small snacks rather than full meals. [feedback]

Kiyamachi Oike-sagaru, Hitotsu-Sujime Higashi-iru, Oku Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-2am. Closed Tuesdays.

Luxuriously over-the-top French cuisine revolving around rich ingredients like foie gras, lobster and domestic beef. The degustation menu is Y13,000. [feedback]

Kawaramachi-Oike, Kyoto Hotel Okura 17F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9pm daily.

The chef here is from the Kerala region of India, and he prepares a full range of dishes from that area, all reasonably priced. The interior is modern and tastefully decorated. [feedback]

Kawaramachi Sanjo-agaru Nishigawa, Ledic Building 2F. (opposite Royal Hotel) Open 11:30am-2, 5-9pm (LO) daily.

This stylish little counter bar serves a healthy menu featuring organic Kyoto vegetables, brown rice and pasta dishes (some with meat or fish). Budget around Y850 at lunch, Y2000 at dinner. [feedback]

Kawaramachi Sanjo-sagaru Narayamachi 291, De Lido-kan 1F. (from Sanjo south on Kawaramachi, turn left at the fifth corner, at the Haagen Dazs) Open 11:30am-3:30pm, 6-10pm (LO) daily.

Yes, there is such a thing as gourmet yoshoku, and Hafuu leads the way with nicely prepared tongue stews, fried shrimps, cutlet sandwiches and other Japanese-style Western classics. The modern architecture is another nice change from convention, as is the wine list. Dinner runs around Y4000-5000 with drinks. [feedback]

Fuyacho-dori Ebisugawa-dori-agaru, Sasayacho 471-1. (Fuyacho just N of Ebisugawa) Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

The only item that polarizes diners at Kati is the Mekhong rum. Beyond this very potent brew, the menu of Thai classics has everyone in agreement - the food is good. Formerly housed in a converted warehouse, the new space is as long as the previous restaurant was broad. The pale green walls and plants have been maintained, as has the no-fuss service. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Ebisugawa-dori Fuyacho Nishi-iri, Kiyacho 488-1, Wood Bldg 2F. Open noon-2pm, 5:30-10pm. Closed Mondays.

El Fogon is a little slice of Spain in downtown Kyoto. Serrano ham, Moorish tiles, and a terracotta floor: it could be somewhere in Andalucia. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Gokomachi Oike-agaru, Kameyacho 380. (on Gokomachi-dori in the first block north of Oike-dori, on the west side) Open 3pm-3am (rest 5:30-11pm LO). Closed Wednesdays.

The decor is old-school budget French (checkered tablecloths, tiny tables, a big counter at one end of the room), but the menu is a cut above the decor, with good country-style cuisine at down-to-earth prices (Y2500 for a prix-fixe dinner). The wine list also offers some bargains. [feedback]

Nijo Teramachi Enokicho 71-1. (just E of Teramachi and Nijo) Open 8am-2:30pm, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Thursdays.

Park Caffe is nowhere near a park but it's a great place to watch the world go by. Sunlight streams in through the floor-to-ceiling window. A marvel of design economy, there are three seating areas; sleek LEM Piston Stools at the bar, couches along one wall, and a row of solid, brown '70s chairs and tables in the main dining area. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Gokomachi-dori Oike-sagaru. (on the east side of Gokomachi-dori in the first block south of Oike-dori) Open noon-11pm daily.

Pleasure, imagination, use; Yusoshi is a hybrid of these three words and is a downtown hangout for the Oike set. Comme des Garcons patrons come here after racking up purchases in the CDG shop downstairs. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Gokomachi-dori Oike-agaru, Kameyacho 378, Moon Bldg 5F. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.

Ace Cafe has a new cousin - Ace Cafe Red. On the ninth floor of the Takase Building on Sanjo-dori, it has a similar elevation to Ace Cafe but takes it up a notch with the view. The lights of Kawabata-dori trail off into the northern foothills, Minamiza Theater beckons from the south and the ascending moon over Higashiyama is so clear it looks like a High Definition recording. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Sanjo-dori Kiyamachi Higashi-iru, Takase Bldg 9F. (on the south side of Sanjo-dori between Kamogawa and Kiyamachi; Sujata Indian restaurant is on the second floor) Open noon-midnight daily.

This very casual beer bar attracts an assortment of tourists and representatives of Kyoto's foreign community. (Open to 3am weekends.) [feedback]

Kawaramachi-dori Sanjo-sagaru, Kuromachi 71. Open 5pm-midnight daily.

This traditional shop in a lovely old building has been preparing first-class sukiyaki for 130 years now, and they're still going strong. Budget around Y8000 at dinnertime, or a bit more for their full-course extravaganzas. [feedback]

Teramachi Sanjo-sagaru. (Teramachi just S of Sanjo) Open 11:30am-9pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

A pleasant, medium-sized bar with a serious selection of single-malt Scotch whiskies and one very good Japanese microbrew beer (Yona Yona real ale on tap). [feedback]

Nijo Kiyamachi Higashi-iru, Valls Building 2F. (across the street from Hotel Fujita) Open 6pm-3am (5am weekends) daily.

This sprawling building was once the private mansion of one of Kyoto's leading merchants, and its beautiful garden and riverfront setting make it a popular spot for parties and banquets - this is really the kind of place to go with a group of people. Set meals start at around Y3000. [feedback]

Kiyamachi-dori Nijo-sagaru. (on Kiyamachi-dori just S of Nijo) Open 11:30am-10pm daily.