Kansai Food Page
Sun/
Sannomiya south:
Japanese
₯078-331-1233
€Data
Kobe restaurants
tend to be more
architecturally
restrained, more
traditionally
oriented than their
counterparts in
Tokyo or Osaka, but
"Dynamic Kitchen
Sun" is a rare ex-
ception. It's a
stunning example of
contemporary restau-
rant design, and an
exciting space to
experience as a
diner. The food here
is creative but not
over-aggressively
so, with some intri-
guing local culinary
touches that may be
of interest to Kobe
visitors.

Starting at the
dramatically lit
entrance, diners
here walk through a
succession of visu-
ally distinct spaces
- there's a partial-
ly screened off bar
area to the right of
the entrance path-
way, then further
along is a room full
of dimly lit tables
arranged to take
advantage of the
10th-floor view over
central Kobe. Then
there's a small area
of zashiki seating
along the far glass
wall. To the left is
a huge, warmly lit
L-shaped counter
that's instantly
recognizable as the
heart of the place,
providing a balance
for the hard design
edges and adding a
warmer, human ele-
ment. Large earthen-
ware pots and
sprawling arrange-
ments of dried flow-
ers and branches
also serve to set
off the different
spaces, and rein-
force the earth-
toned color scheme.

The food menu is
organized around
tofu, seasonal fish,
and high-quality
brand-name meats.
(The last category
is listed more spe-
cifically on the
menu as Mitsuse
chicken, Yamato beef
and Kagoshima pork.)
The dishes tend to
be relatively simple
(grilled chicken,
stewed pork kakuni-
style) and they're
all well executed.
There's often an
unexpected ingredi-
ent that sets the
dish apart - for
example the tsukune
meatballs (here
wrapped around a
wooden stick) came
with an interesting
garnish of shredded
scallions and a
spicy mayonnaise-
like sauce that
worked much better
than the typical
tare sauce. The
omelette comes with
a bit of thick,
sweet sauce and a
delicate filling of
yuba (tofu skin) and
fragrant mitsuba.

One interesting
regional item is the
grilled eel sushi,
prepared in the
Kansai style by
pressing the fish
topping over rice in
a rectangular box,
then cutting it into
rectangular pieces.
Kobe is also famous
for its Chinatown
neighborhood, and
another locally
influenced dish is
the excellent as-
sorted dim sum plat-
ter. This is defi-
nitely a cross-cul-
tural interpretation
of dim sum - the
dipping sauce has a
distinctive yuzu
component, and one
of the dim sum va-
rieties looks like a
typical crab ball
but seems to be made
from polenta in-
stead. Another dump-
ling is filled with
delicate slivers of
various seafood
ingredients along
with tiny green
peas.

Excellent, creative
cooking, friendly
service and some of
the nicest modern
decor in Kobe make
this restaurant
worth a stopover if
you're in town.
Budget around Y4000-
7000 per person with
drinks. Sun is con-
veniently located in
the Kobe Kyotsu
Center, which is
attached to the
south side of JR
Sannomiya station.
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Sannomiya 1-10-1,
Kobe Kotsu Center
Building 10F. [above
JR Sannomiya sta-
tion, on the south
side]
 Open 11am-2, 5-
10pm (LO) daily.
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