TFP Review
★Lohotoi/
Shiroganedai: Dim
sum
▼3449-8899
▽Data
On a peculiarly
eclectic stretch of
road between Ebisu
and Shirogane, this
Cantonese hole-in-
the-wall does little
to catch the eye.
The entrance is dim
and narrow, and
minimal thought was
given to interior
design in the main
dining space up-
stairs. The walls
are adorned in ran-
dom fashion, with
street maps of Hong
Kong here, a faded
poster depicting
species of fish
there. All of this,
however, can be
forgiven; what Loho-
toi lacks in appear-
ance, it more than
makes up for in the
quality of the food.
The dim sum here is
famous, and our
dishes of steamed
and fried delicacies
did not disappoint.
Around ten dim sum
items - most of
which come in easy-
to-split even num-
bers - are avail-
able, and nearly
everything is deli-
cious.
Marvelously textured
with fat chunks of
shrimp and pork, the
dried scallop shumai
were good enough to
warrant a second
order. The sticky
rice parcels wrapped
in lotus leaves came
generously stuffed
with an intensely
flavored mixture of
meat and diced shii-
take mushrooms,
while the deep-fried
sticky rice puffs
were crisp, chewy,
and sweet. Although
the Shanghai-style
soup dumplings
lacked impact and
the steamed pork
buns were a tad dry,
the translucent
shrimp dumplings
filled with bamboo
and tea leaves were
a smashing success.
The congee (they
offer several varie-
ties) and noodles
are extremely popu-
lar. Even die-hard
dim sum fans will
find it difficult to
resist noodles stir-
fried with bean
sprouts and pink
flecks of char siew
pork, or seafood and
vegetable lo-mein.
Lohotoi also offers
a range of cold
appetizers, soups,
and mains available
for take-out. We
were delighted to
discover pork belly
and cracklings on
the menu, and con-
sidered taking home
an extra order.
Succulent, crunchy,
and dangerously
addictive, this dish
is sadly difficult
to find in Tokyo.
Though not cheap,
prices are far from
unreasonable. Budget
around Y3000 for a
satisfying dim sum
lunch.
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◎Ebisu 3-48-1.
◎Open 11:30am-2:30,
6-11pm (LO). Closed
Wednesdays.
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