TFP Review
★★L'Osier/
Ginza: French
▼3571-6050
▽Data

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L'osier's chef Bruno
Menard moves through
the restaurant with
the self-assured
ease of a man who
has been cooking
since the age of
fifteen. Known for
his creativity and
attention to detail,
the Michelin-starred
French chef produces
dishes that are
complex, vivid and
gorgeously present-
ed.

Unsurprisingly,
every course arrives
looking like a piece
of art inspired by
the restaurant's
High Modernist/Art
Deco interior.
Slices of potato,
dotted with an iris
of black squid ink
and coral-hued sea
urchin, surround a
mound of smoked
herring mousse,
punctuated with
sprigs of dill and
precise morsels of
onion and lemon
zest. The entire
composition floats
on a magenta-colored
red onion gelee. An
architecturally
plated dish of
mushroom-stuffed
chicken roulade is
joined by a short
stack of potato
pancakes, beside a
neat package of
finely diced shii-
take wrapped in
wilted bok choy.
Visually, it recalls
the off-kilter Doric
columns of Greek
ruins.

While there is much
to delight the eye,
there is also a
great deal to please
the palate. Mr.
Menard cleverly
incorporates Japa-
nese ingredients
into his creations.
A fluffy custard of
sea urchin is topped
with savory seaweed
mayonnaise and
served with a slice
of toasted nori
baguette. Poached
rainbow trout, ac-
cented with nori-
infused oil, is
accompanied by a
compact square of
fresh aonori sea-
weed, mixed with
cucumber and capers.
The texture of the
fish is moist and
velvety, and the
vibrant flavor of
the seaweed condi-
ment brightens the
dish beautifully.

The mostly French
wine list features
some interesting
selections by the
glass -- including
the 2002 Cour-Che-
verny Domaine des
Huards (Y2000), a
lively white made
from the rare Romo-
rantin grape.

Even at lunchtime,
dessert is an elab-
orate affair with
multiple courses. As
you teeter on the
verge of a food-
induced stupor, your
main dessert ar-
rives: a layered
dish of rhubarb
compote and creamy
vanilla custard,
under a cherry-red
langue du chat cook-
ie with a dollop of
strawberry sorbet.
Thankfully, the
staff will offer you
a doggie bag for
your petit fours.

[Prix-fixe lunch
from Y6800, dinner
from Y16,000; a la
carte mains Y6200-
9800. Reserve well
in advance.]

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◎Ginza 7-5-5.
◎Open noon-2:30, 6-
9:30pm. Closed
Sundays.

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