TFP Food News
Chic Hotel Bars
by Melinda Joe
Forget brass-studded
Naugahyde chairs and
watered-down high-
balls. These days,
the hotel bar expe-
rience is more fun
than merely funny.
Internationally
acclaimed designers
have injected the
stodgy hotel bar
with real style, and
skilled bartenders
have revived the art
of the properly
mixed cocktail.
Mandarin Bar
Sumptuous is the
word for the Mandar-
in Bar at the Man-
darin Oriental Hotel
in Nihonbashi. The
interior by Ryu
Kosaka, with richly
tactile accents by
textile designer
Reiko Sudo, is chic
and inviting, domi-
nated by seductive
earth tones. The
scale of everything
here, from the
bathtub-sized chairs
with gargantuan
cushions to the
fireplace that
stretches nearly two
floors to the ceil-
ing, feels playfully
large. The bar it-
self is rather spa-
cious, with two main
seating areas on
either side of the
central bar.
The extensive drinks
menu - the wine list
is its own separate
tome - features
original, mostly
fruity, cocktails
from Y1800. The
Ancient City, a
blend of tequila,
Cointreau, and pas-
sion fruit, lacked
impact but was
greatly improved by
an additional shot
of tequila. There
are flavored marti-
nis to suit every-
one's fancy, but the
classic and dirty
martinis (Y2100)
can't be beat.
Malt whiskey by the
glass (Y1995 -
Y4000) and bottles
of sake like Okuno-
matsu 88 Tokubetsu
Junmai-shu (Y5040)
and Tatsuriki Junmai
Ginjo (Y12,600) are
also available.
Snacks from adjacent
restaurants Sense
and Signature can be
ordered until 11:00.
The Mandarin Bar
fills up after 8pm,
so you may have to
wait for a table. A
live jazz band per-
forms nightly for
the relaxed and
casual crowd, a mix
of locals and visi-
tors. No cover
charge. [data]
Peter: The Bar
The experience of
walking into the bar
at Peter, the Penin-
sula's much talked-
about fusion restau-
rant, defies expec-
tation. Design team
Yabu Pushelberg has
created a 21st-cen-
tury fantasy of the
'80s, a post-modern
atmosphere filled
with shiny surfaces
and accents that
seem lifted from the
pages of a Bret
Easton Ellis novel.
Patrons lounge on
pod-shaped seats
beneath polished
chrome trees, while
ambient electronic
music mingles with
the soft glow of
lavender neon from
behind the black
marble bar.
The drink menu lists
beers from Y1100 -
Ebisu draft and an
organic pilsner from
Hokkaido brewed
exclusively for the
hotel - and about
twelve wines by the
glass starting at
Y1800. A range of
malt whiskies
(Y2600-) will please
traditionalists, but
those with a taste
for fruity cocktails
(Y1800-Y2200) will
not be disappointed.
The Yuri is a re-
freshing combination
of sake and lychee-
flavored Dita with a
twist of green sui-
dachi; this season's
featured cocktail,
the Tokyo Joe, is a
mixture of Bombay
Sapphire Gin, ume-
shu, Drambuie, and
cranberry juice,
named after the 1949
Humphrey Bogart
flick. Nibbles can
be ordered from the
bar menu.
Friendly service and
the absence of a
cover charge are a
plus, making Peter:
The Bar a fun place
for a drink and a
great view of the
city. [data]
TwentyEight
Located in the lobby
of the Conrad Hotel,
TwentyEight is an
oasis of muted mono-
chromes with dis-
crete edges. The
bar's sleek design
displays a tight
graphic crispness,
while linen shades
and leather uphol-
stery in shades of
cream and brown
impart a contrasting
softness. When plan-
ning the interior
for the Conrad, G.A.
Design envisioned a
garden of urban
tranquility, and
TwentyEight, with
its soaring ceil-
ings, angled sky-
lights, and excel-
lent views of Tokyo
Bay, proves to be a
relaxing spot in
Shiodome.
Teatime is popular
here, and the after-
noon tea set (Y3500)
arrives arranged on
a frosted glass
platter like an
assortment of sweet
and savory petit
fours. A miniature
scone with clotted
cream and raspberry
jam is light but
satisfying, as is
the grilled chicken
canape with avocado
cream.
Those in search of
something stronger
than tea can find
signature cocktails
from Y1700 like the
Tei-en, an unusual
combination of vodka
mixed with cucumber,
shiso, kiwi, and
cardamom seed, and
the French 28, a
pleasant champagne-
based number spiked
with Tanqueray and
lime leaf, in addi-
tion to Bombay Sap-
phire martinis
(Y2000). Tapas like
zuwaigani crab cakes
and marinated beef
shins with cucumber
are available after
5:30 (Y2000 for a
set of three).
Dusk is arguably the
best time to visit
TwentyEight; calm
settles over the
space as the sun-
light fades and
votive candles
flicker to life. The
scene gets busier in
the evenings, when
the after-work crowd
rolls in and the
live band strikes
up, but beware the
Y1800 seating charge
after 8pm. [data]
The Lobby Lounge
and Bar at the Ritz
Perched high above
the city on the 45th
floor of Tokyo Mid-
town's Ritz Carlton
Hotel, the Lobby Bar
overlooks Tokyo
Tower and the sur-
rounding area. Nes-
tled in overstuffed
chairs with pillows
covered in candy-
colored pastel silk,
visitors can enjoy
spectacular views
while listening to
live Bossa Nova from
2:30-midnight. The
interior, designed
by Frank Nicholson,
is modern but tradi-
tional, with impres-
sively high ceilings
and amber wood walls
illuminated by giant
inverted-gumdrop
lamps.
The decor may be
understated, but the
menu brims with
over-the-top luxury.
Although nothing
says indulgence
quite like the Di-
amond Is Forever
Martini, a Belvedere
vodka martini poured
over a one carat
diamond for Y1,800,
000; the Lobster
Martini topped with
caviar and creme
fraiche (Y7800) and
WOW Burger made with
100% black Kobe beef
(Y13,450) appear to
speak a similarly
decadent language.
More practically
minded patrons can
choose from beer at
Y1200, wines by the
glass starting at
Y1800, cocktails
from Y2000, and
light bites like
mixed pork and
chicken skewers.
Arrive on the early
side if you want a
window seat - they
are usually taken by
6pm. An entertain-
ment charge of Y2500
applies after 8pm.
[data]
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