Tokyo Food Page
ššCicada/
Omotesando:
Mediterranean
₯6434-1255
€Data
First-rate Mediter-
ranean cuisine from
Chef David Chiddo
and the TY Harbor
group (Ivy Place,
Smokehouse). Now
located in the heart
of Aoyama (after a
decade in Hiroo),
the spacious quar-
ters are evocative
of a luxury tropical
resort, with com-
fortable terrace
seating, pools of
water and an appeal-
ing open-air bar.
The complex also
houses a branch of
TY Harbor's excel-
lent bakery, Bread-
works, and a casual
cafe space called
Crisscross.

The organization of
the menu is the
first sign of Cica-
da's ambitious agen-
da - it starts with
small tapas-sized
dishes to nibble on,
followed by salamis,
hams, and an impres-
sive selection of
cheeses (of the
goat, cow and sheep
varieties). In addi-
tion to the usual
salads you'll find a
selection of
vegetable-centered
(but not necessarily
vegetarian) dishes,
including an ex-
panded mezze selec-
tion with tempting
dips like roast
cauliflower-tahini
puree and spinach-
almond puree with
sour cream.

The rest of the menu
runs the gamut from
Spanish and Portu-
guese to Moroccan,
Greek and southern
Italian. One thing
many of the dishes
share is a natural
spiciness - some-
thing that's too
often toned down in
Tokyo restaurants.
The Moroccan spicy
crab cakes are some
of the best we've
ever had, moist and
richly flavored with
cilantro and other
herbs and a very
piquant sauce. Mo-
rocco is also repre-
sented by a spicy
tajine-style fish
stew, and grilled
Moroccan swordfish
with fennel salad.

Hearty, robust fla-
vors call for equal-
ly assertive wines,
and the list here
doesn't disappoint.
It's big - some 20
wines by the glass,
over 100 by the
bottle - and there
are some great finds
in the Y5000-and-
under range. The
selection is entire-
ly Old World -
knowledegable
choices from Rioja
and Langedoc-Rous-
sillon, Sicily and
Tuscany, plus over a
dozen sherries (al-
most all available
by the glass). The
wine cellar itself
is an architectural
focal point, and the
liberal by-the-glass
policy means that
you can take your
time plumbing its
depths.
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rants

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bars


Minato-ku, Minami-
Aoyama 5-7-28. 
Open 11:30am-2:30,
5:30pm-2am (LO)
daily.
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