Tokyo Food Page
šTateru Yoshino/
Shiodome: French
₯6252-1155
€Data
Stella Maris, chef
Yoshino's Michelin-
starred restaurant
in Paris, earned its
stellar reputation
based on high-level
French cooking (with
subtle Japanese
influences) and
excellent game
dishes, so we were
eager to try out
Monsieur Yoshino's
eponymous Tokyo
restaurant. We wer-
en't disappointed.
The food is artfully
prepared and beauti-
fully presented,
creative but not
overly showy, and
built around smartly
balanced, top-qual-
ity seasonal ingre-
dients. In short, it
is some of the most
enjoyable French
cuisine we've had in
a long time.

Located in a bouti-
quey designer hotel,
the restaurant is
simple but pleasant-
ly appointed, with
the obvious focus of
attention being the
25th-floor view of
Tokyo Bay and the
nearby skyscrapers
of Shiodome. At
dinnertime, live
jazz wafts in from
the adjacent lobby
lounge, adding some
life to the small
room. The service is
very professional
but somewhat formal
- we found ourselves
speaking in hushed
voices when we first
sat down, but the
atmosphere gradually
loosened up as more
diners arrived.

A recent meal
started with carpac-
cio of young goat
from Kikai Island.
We had just enjoyed
Okinawan-style raw
goat the night be-
fore but this was
quite a different
experience; the meat
was tender and very
flavorful without
being overly gamey,
served with a gener-
ous assortment of
salad greens. The
starter of carrot
mousse topped with
fresh uni turned out
to be a pleasant
surprise, with the
smooth, creamy in-
gredients balanced
by the crunchier
textures of an ex-
cellent spring vege-
table salad. Aspara-
gus risotto with
frog's legs (a daily
special) was another
stand-out appetizer.


Our roast lamb main
dish was attractive-
ly presented on two
side-by-side rectan-
gular plates, one
devoted to meat and
the other heaped
with greens, baby
tomatoes and other
vegetables served
with anchovy sauce -
a sort of decon-
structed bagna cau-
da. The lamb was
some of the finest-
quality meat we've
had in Tokyo. Equal-
ly impressive was
the roast veal with
duck foie gras fla-
vored with rosemary.
The fish choices
we've tried (rock-
fish, sole) have
also been excellent,
but the meat dishes
here really stand
out in terms of
intensity of flavor.


We had no complaints
about any of the
luscious desserts,
and the big selec-
tion of colorful
petit fours served
with our coffee was
a nice final touch.
Dinnertime prix-fixe
menus start at Y7875
(Y3675 at lunch-
time), or you can
opt for a deluxe
Y15,750 menu show-
casing dishes from
the Parisian restau-
rant. You can sup-
plement any of the
menus with a stun-
ning cheese platter
(Y1890). The red-
heavy wine list is
well chosen, strong
in Burgundy and
Bordeaux wines,
although there's not
much under Y10,000
per bottle; wine by
the glass starts at
around Y1300. There
are about a dozen
wines by the half-
bottle.

There's also an
adjacent wine bar
with less expensive
a la carte options
and very late hours
for this office
neighborhood - last
order for food is
11:30pm and drinks
are served until 1:
30am.
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Minato-ku,
Higashi-Shimbashi 1-
7-1, Park Hotel
Tokyo 25F.  Open
7-10:30am, 11:30-
2pm, 6-9pm (LO)
daily.
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