Tokyo Food Page
Coucagno/
Shibuya: French
¥3476-3000
¤Data
We came for the
view, but the food
got most of our
attention. A deci-
sion to splurge a
little for a meal
with a skyscraper
view led us to Cou-
cagno in the Ceru-
lean Tower Hotel,
perched high above
Shibuya. The restau-
rant is on the south
side of the 40th
floor, facing south-
east and affording a
clear, unimpeded
view to Tokyo Bay.
We'd booked early
enough to watch dusk
turn to darkness as
we ate our meal, and
we even managed to
get a corner table.
Later during our
meal, the changing
colors of the bril-
liantly lit ferris
wheel in Odaiba
provided an fasci-
nating diversion far
in the distance.

Although there's an
a la carte menu, the
prix fixe dinners
(priced at around
Y8000, Y10,000 and
Y14,000) offer sub-
stantial savings. We
chose the Y10,000
option, and it
turned out to in-
clude a generous
amount of food -
starter, appetizer,
soup, fish and meat
courses, dessert,
coffee and cookies -
all of it well pre-
pared, with subtly
creative touches.

Our small starter
plate included a
tiny teacup of
chilled potato soup
- slightly foamy
with lots of cream -
plus a miniature
pizza and a tiny
slice of quiche.
This was followed by
a real show-stopper
- a thick slice of
organic vegetable
terrine with red
pimento sauce, con-
taining asparagus,
tiny green beans,
various mushrooms,
crab legs and more.
The terrine came
with an interesting
garnish - a slice of
yellow zucchini
wrapped around of
scoop of creamy lime
sherbet. The flavors
of this dish were as
bright as the col-
ors, and really set
our appetites in
motion. This terrine
was followed by a
small cup of beef
consomme, which
prepared our palates
for the next course.


The red sea bream
meuniere was a gen-
erous dish, with a
good-size portion of
fish filet very
lightly and expertly
coated with flour
and thyme and sau-
teed, rendering the
skin light and
crispy, while leav-
ing the flesh ex-
tremely juicy and
moist, with just the
right amount of
firmness. The gar-
nish was a few thin
stalks of fresh
asparagus, dotted
with white baby
scallops. Interest-
ingly, the fish
filet was anchored
to the plate with a
fresh paste of
bright green paste
of fava beans, mak-
ing it easy to cut,
while the beans
complemented the
buttery flavor of
the fish. The final
touch was a plump
clove of baked gar-
lic.

The high level of
culinary skill con-
tinued into the next
course, which was
sauteed breast of
duck, honey flavor,
served with saffron
rice studded with
grains of wild rice
to achieve an inter-
esting texture. The
duck was delicious
in every way, with
the thin stripe of
fat under the crisp
skin incredibly
soft, while the
flesh was firm yet
tender.

These and most all
dishes in the prix
fixe dinners are
also available a la
carte. The wine list
contains an impres-
sive selection of
wines in the 10,000
to 15,000 yen range,
though a few New
World vintages are
priced around 6,500
yen.

Following the de-
lightful dessert
course, our coffee
was accompanied by a
generous assortment
of tiny cookies,
served in a small
box. Thankfully, the
box was designed to
be closed up and
taken home, which we
did, along with
memories of a very
fine meal which
stole much of our
attention from the
exciting night view
of Tokyo.
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Shibuya-ku, Saku-
ragaokacho 26-1,
Cerulean Tower Hotel
40F.  Open 11:
30am-2, 5:30-10pm
(LO) daily.
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