Tokyo Food Page

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★Kurobutaya/
Ebisu: Izakaya
▼5793-3585
▽Data

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Kurobutaya is a
friendly, upbeat
izakaya with a styl-
ish flair that sets
it apart from run-
of-the-mill drinking
spots. Distinguish-
ing them even fur-
ther is their unique
menu - they special-
ize in pork, specif-
ically the "kurobu-
ta" breed that's the
most famous of Ja-
pan's name-brand
pigs. Originally
from England, the
breed is also known
as Berkshire pork,
and it's prized for
its distinctive
flavor and its ample
marbling, which
gives it a juiciness
not found in ordi-
nary pork.

The food here covers
the full range of
Japanese pork cui-
sine, from stews and
stir-fries to deep-
fried tonkatsu and
Chinese-influenced
gyoza and shumai
dumplings. But sim-
ple charcoal grill-
ing may be the best
way to appreciate
the full flavors of
the meat, and there
are several excel-
lent grilled options
to choose from. Our
favorites include
the thinly sliced
bara-niku and the
incredible spare
ribs. The latter
come slathered in a
tasty barbecue sauce
that is on the sweet
side and closer to
Chinese barbecue
than Texas style.
(The recipe includes
oyster sauce, star
anise and pineapple
juice.) Don't miss
them.

There are usually
one or two homemade
sausages on the
daily specials
board, and these are
also worth a try.
Selections from the
stew section include
a version of kakuni
(Kyushu-style stewed
pork chunks) that's
far leaner than
might be expected,
and a rich tofu and
pork stew. The side
dishes are also well
thought out - a
kinpira spiced up by
with hair-thin sliv-
ers of red pepper,
and fantastic sliced
cucumbers flavored
with sesame and
breathtaking amounts
of garlic.

The drinks menu
includes a wide
assortment of sho-
chu, plus six dif-
ferent kinds of
umeshu (plum wine),
an unusually large
selection. There are
only two sake, both
from Niigata, but
they're well chosen
to match the rich
pork flavors. The
two Spanish red
wines available by
the glass are also
sturdy enough to
stand up to the
food.

Shochu is actually a
major theme of the
decor - a recessed
shelf filled with
shochu bottles runs
the entire length of
the shop, and more
bottles line the
back walls over the
bar. Tables here
have more elbow room
than in a typical
izakaya, and there's
a stylish tall
counter-style table
with high stools to
accommodate medium-
sized groups. The
overall atmosphere
is casual and lively
but also sophisti-
cated - the custom-
ers here clearly
appreciate the high
quality of the food
and drink on offer,
while the staff are
knowledgeable and
helpful.

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▼Photo (small)
▼Photo (large)
▼Map for AU phones
▼Map for DoCoMo

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◎Ebisu 4-9-5.
[across the street
from Zest, more or
less]
◎Open 11:30am-2, 5:
30pm-2am (LO) daily.

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