Tokyo Food Page
Dobro/
Kyobashi: Croatian
₯5250-2055
€Data
Like Italy, its much
larger neighbor
across the Adriatic,
Croatia has a long
coastline and a
seafood-heavy Medi-
terranean cuisine
built around grilled
fish, scampi, mus-
sels and calamari as
well as goat cheese,
dried ham and
olives. At the same
time, northeastern
Croatia borders
Hungary and is close
to Austria, so East-
ern European culi-
nary influences are
also strong. Dobro,
a well-hidden Nihon-
bashi spot, does an
excellent job intro-
ducing this often
overlooked cuisine
to Tokyo diners.

The simple but ele-
gant marble-walled
dining room is
reached by decending
half a flight of
semi-circular stone
steps; a large mural
painting of an Adri-
atic fishing village
stands at the en-
trance, and antique
carvings and smaller
paintings decorate
the walls. The room
looks like it could
have been an expen-
sive jewelry bou-
tique before it
became a restaurant,
and it's furnished
with about ten well-
spaced tables. The
crowd is a mix of
well-dressed couples
and after-work of-
fice parties, and
there's a slightly
formal feel to the
proceedings.

The food is more of
a draw than the
atmosphere, though,
and it's rather
unique within Japan.
Main dishes include
items like grilled
duck with beans;
rabbit goulash;
Dalmatian-style
prawns and other
seafood - all with
distinctive, unusual
flavors. The gou-
lash, for example,
isn't quite the
heavy peasant stew
one might expect -
the spicing is sub-
tle, the meat tender
and flavorful, and
the asparagus, tur-
nip and other vege-
tables firmly tex-
tured and crunchy.

The cuisine's Ital-
ian influence can be
seen in the
Croatian-style la-
sagnas, risotti and
pastas, with varia-
tions like truffle
risotto, scallop
risotto, and pasta
with venison ragout.
There's a "chef's
special" risotto,
and a recent offer-
ing incorporated
fresh seasonal mush-
rooms, tomato, and
some of the tastiest
shrimp we've had in
a long time. A la
carte portions are
just big enough to
share, but small
enough to eat alone
if you've got a good
appetite.

Other dishes include
good home-made pork
sausages, served
with lots of fresh
pepper; foie gras w/
red wine and fruit
sauce; a nice raw
fish appetizer with
mango and raspberry
sauce; and delicious
stuffed cabbage,
made with tradition-
al soured cabbage
wrapped around a
salt-cured mix of
ground pork and
rice. The home-made
bread is fantastic -
dense but easy to
chew, with a crunchy
crust - and it's
usually served with
some sort of savory
spread - meat ril-
lettes or cheese
mixed with soybeans.


The Croatian wines
are interesting to
try - hearty and
spicy, yet smoother
than expected - but
the Y4500 Australian
shiraz may be just
as good a choice. In
addition to a la
carte, Dobro also
offers prix-fixe
dinners (Y4200-10,
000) and lunches
(Y1600-4800). Al-
though the Croatian
chefs who were here
at the restaurant's
opening in late 2003
have returned to
Europe, the Japanese
kitchen staff have
learned well from
them, and Dobro's
cooking is confident
and solid.
₯Photo
₯Google Map
₯Map for AU phones
₯Map for DoCoMo
₯Nearest restau-
rants

₯Nearest cafes/
bars


Chuo-ku, Kyobashi
2-6-14.  Open 11:
30am-2, 6-10pm (LO).
Closed Sundays.
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