Tokyo Food Page
Shamo is a breed of
game bird known for
its tasty, slightly
chewy meat, and it's
the bird of choice
on the busy grills
at Kokekokko. This
yakitoriya serves
the usual selection
of chicken parts on
skewers - all very
high in quality -
along with beautiful
grilled vegetables
and appealing side
dishes, including
chicken sashimi.
Besides serving
birds of distin-
guished pedigree
(always fresh, never
frozen), they also
take pride in the
quality of their
charcoal (kishu
binchotan from Wa-
kayama) and their
gourmet salt (sea
salt from Bretagne).

The chicken wings
are one of the high-
lights here, or
actually two of the
highlights - they
offer both tebanaka
and tebamoto (meat
from the middle and
upper wing, repec-
tively), rather than
the more common
tebasaki. Both are
served boneless and
are quite juicy and
flavorful. The sasa-
mi (breast meat) is
very rare on the
inside, topped with
fresh-ground wasabi
in tiny dabs that
don't overpower the
flavor. The tsukune
(minced chicken
patty) is substan-
tial in size and
very meaty, accompa-
nied by a richly
flavored, bright-
yellow raw egg for

Lined up on the
grill alongside the
chicken skewers is
an impressive array
of vegetables -
gigantic shiitake
mushrooms, big
chunks of eringi
mushroom, large
cubes of eggplant,
and a few things you
don't see every day,
like baby corn and
delicate, gingery
myoga buds. Pickles
are made from color-
ful Kyoto heirloom
vegetables, prepared
with a light touch
so that they are
fresh-tasting and
just barely salty.
Other side dishes
include liver pate,
tataki (chicken
seared on the out-
side, raw in the
middle), and a sa-
shimi platter with
raw chicken meat and
chicken liver. Four
premium sakes and a
handful of shochu
brands supplement
the usual beer and
chuhai cocktails on
the drinks list.

The tiny shop is
wedged into a base-
ment corner of a
shopping complex,
adjoining the Shin-
juku station under-
ground (there's a
Uniqlo at ground
level). Seating is
tight but the coun-
ter is comfortably
wide, the modern
decor is tasteful
and subdued, and the
atmosphere is con-
vivial. The sixteen
counter seats fill
up quickly, but
there's reasonable
turnover during the
course of the eve-
ning if you're a
single diner or a
pair. Groups can
reserve a table in
the separate private
room, which seats
eight. Budget around
Y3500-4500 for a
dinner-size portion
of food and drinks.
Google Map
Map for AU phones
Map for DoCoMo
Nearest restau-

Nearest cafes/

Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-
1, Palette Town
Bldg. B2F. Open
4-10:30pm (LO)
Tokyo Food top