Tokyo Food Page

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★★Seigetsu/
Kagurazaka: Izakaya
▼3269-4320
▽Data

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Seigetsu is the most
comfortable izakaya
we've been to in
quite awhile. The
large interior is
cleverly divided up
into semi-private
areas with just a
few tables each, so
it feels cozy in
spite of the size.
The lighting is
subdued, and the
decor strikes a nice
balance between
tasteful and casual,
with rough stucco
walls, delicate
bamboo screens and
solid wooden tables.
In addition to the
private nooks,
there's also seating
at a spacious main
counter for those
who want to be in
the middle of the
action. Here the
heart of the opera-
tion is the grill
area - set behind a
protective plexi-
glass window to stop
flying sparks -
where chefs tend to
the skewers of
chicken and fish
cooking slowly over
the charcoal pit.

Wherever you decide
to settle in, your
first order of busi-
ness will be an
inspection of the
drinks menu - a
pleasant but time-
consuming task if
you happen to be a
sake or shochu affi-
cianado. The sake
list offers a few
dozen selections
from around the
country, plus plenty
of seasonal spe-
cials. The waiters
know the sake
choices well and can
give advice if you
ask, while certain
staff members are
designated as in-
house shochu consul-
tants should your
tastes run in that
direction. The sho-
chu menu covers
areas of Japan be-
sides just Kyushu -
on a whim we tried a
shiso-flavored sho-
chu from Hokkaido
that was surprising-
ly dry and very
pleasant (and a
bargain at only
Y400).

Unlike many sake-
connoisseur pubs,
the food here stands
on its own, and
would make Seigetsu
worth a visit even
if they only served
tea. There's a full
izakaya menu, but
the grilled meats
and seafood are
definitely the place
to start. On a re-
cent visit we en-
joyed exceptionally
good chicken wings -
slow-cooked so that
the skin was crispy
all the way through,
not just on the
surface, while the
meat remained moist
and flavorful. The
jidori-yaki (grilled
free-range chicken)
was also first-rate,
and was served with
a delightful ume-
flavored miso as an
alternative to the
usual usual shio/
tare choices, which
are also available.
Even a dish as sim-
ple as grilled
asparagus stood out
- thick, tender
chunks with a subtly
smoky flavor and a
satisfying crunch.

Also worth mention-
ing was our compli-
mentary bowl of
wakame chips -
slightly crumbly,
deep-fried bits of
seaweed that were
delicately flavored
and just salty
enough to be washed
down with a sip of
sake. Other unusual
menu items include
tofu made from eda-
mame, and tempura-
fried shrimp with
garlic mayonaisse.

Seigetsu has a
neighborhood feel to
it, and the layout
favors twosomes and
small groups rather
than larger ones.
The typical custom-
ers seem more like
creative profession-
als rather than
salarymen or stu-
dents, and the me-
dian age is probably
mid-thirties. It's a
sophisticated clien-
tele that's also
value-conscious -
the average check
runs just Y3000-
5000, for remarkably
good food and sake.

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◎Kagurazaka 6-77-1.
[Just off the corner
of Kagurazaka-dori
and Okubo-dori, near
Ushigome-Kagurazaka
station (Oedo-sen)
and Kagurazaka sta-
tion (Tozai-sen),
and a pleasant 8-
minute stroll from
JR Iidabashi]
◎Open 5-11pm (LO)
daily.

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