Tokyo Food Page
ššLauburu/
Omotesando: French
₯3498-1314
€Data
Some restaurants are
great for impressing
clients or visiting
in-laws, some are
good for people-
watching, and some
are just right for a
romantic dinner for
two. Then there are
places like Lauburu
- maybe not so fan-
cy, not so romantic,
but dedicated to the
art of serious eat-
ing.

Lauburu is specifi-
cally dedicated to
the consumption of
pork. From the brass
pig's-foot door
handles to the taxi-
dermified inoshishi
(wild boar) in the
entryway, the rustic
interior is brimming
with porcine bric-a-
brac. The chalkboard
menu is loaded with
cuts of pork we'd
never heard of (at
least not in
French), and the
center of attention
is an open charcoal
grill at the back of
the dining room
where much of the
food is slow-cooked.


The food here is
prepared simply - no
rich, complicated
sauces or sculptural
statements on the
plate, just good
honest country cook-
ing. Entrees run
around Y3000 each,
pricey even for
Aoyama, but portions
are huge - we en-
joyed a large cote
de porc with roast
potatoes and an
enormous pig's
knuckle (jarret de
porc en confit)
accompanied by a
good helping of
stewed white beans
(plus a tiny dish of
cracked black pepper
for seasoning).
Other options in-
clude pig's ear,
pig's foot and blood
sausage. Our goat
cheese salad was
also very simple -
just a plateful of
lightly dressed
endive and rucola
balancing the flavor
of warm, runny hunks
of chevre on toast
rounds.

If for some reason
you're not in the
mood for pork, you
can choose rabbit,
stuffed quail, or
the grilled fish of
the day. The all-
French wine list is
short but service-
able, with about a
dozen selections all
priced at a reason-
able Y3000-6000. We
enjoyed a peppery
Cahors Ch. Lazgre-
zette (Y4800) with
our pork; grappa and
marc are available
after dinner. The
cheese platter is
mostly hard cheeses
like mimolette rath-
er than runny varie-
ties, and desserts
include a rarely-
seen-in-Tokyo rice
pudding, prepared
brulee-style with a
crunchy crust.

The decor is country
farmhouse minimal -
white walls and
wooden beams - but
that's okay, because
you're here for the
food. Billed as a
French/Basque bi-
stro, Lauburu opened
in April 2002; be-
fore that the chef
did stints at Aux
Bacchanales and
elsewhere. Dinner
for two costs around
Y15,000 with drinks.

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Minato-ku, Minami-
Aoyama 6-8-18. [from
the station walk
down Kotto-dori past
Papas Cafe, turn
right, then left
into the first tiny
alleyway]
 Open 6-10pm (LO).
Closed Sundays.
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